No other pedal is as synonymous with David Gilmour’s tones as the Big Muff. This well over 40 years old beast still continue to inspire and define the guitar tone of thousands of guitarists. In this article you’ll learn how to choose the right model for your rig and how to achieve those killer tones.
The Big Muff is by far my all time favourite pedal. Still, no other pedal has caused me more frustration and anger. It’s a love and hate relationship but the more you understand this moody beast the more you’ll appreciate it. The thing that did it for me was that I realized that the Big Muff has its limits both in terms of how you use it and how it sounds. Being able to nail David’s tones and maybe even track down the exact model he’s using is incredibly rewarding but it can turn out to be a hopeless process too. Choosing a model that works for your specific rig is essential for getting the tones you want.

Vintage Big Muffs VS modern clones
Before you start searching Ebay for a vintage Big Muff you should keep in mind that unless you are very aware of what you are about do to, you can end up getting very disappointed. In most cases, you’re better off with a clone. Back in the early 70s Electro Harmonix were quite inconsistent with their designs and components. Add forty years and heavy abuse from former owners and it’s quite obvious that these pedals won’t sound as they once did. It’s also a well known fact among collectors that there’s very little difference between the so called “triangle” and “ram’s head” models other than the chassis (and placement of the knobs). Aged parts and the inconsistency between circuits means that two seemingly identical pedals will sound quite different to each other and you might very well end up with a “ram’s head” that sounds like a “triangle” or vice versa.
The reason why we today consider these to be two different models is perhaps largely to be “blamed” on the early clones that were based on one or several similar original circuits and therefore have a much more defined tone and consistency. Most cloners will also improve or modify the circuit by using better parts and wiring techniques in order to eliminate noise etc.
Visit The Big Muff Pi Page for all there is to know about classic Big Muff models and modern clones.
Fuzz VS Big Muff
It may be hard to tell the difference between a fuzz and Muff especially in terms of David’s tones because his Pompeii and Dark Side fuzz tones are almost as smooth and sustained as a Muff. The difference, apart from the circuit, is that Big Muffs generally has a more saturated tone, more sustain and compression. Although most Muff models will cover David’s Pompeii and Dark Side tones, the “triangle” and “ram’s head” are closer to the classic silicon transistor Fuzz Face with much of the same edgy and raw fuzz tones. However a Muff is far too aggressive and saturated for the 1968-70 tones so for authenticity you might want to consider a germanium fuzz or simply an overdrive.
Volume
The Big Muff needs volume to operate properly. Volume is its fuel and it needs plenty of it. The louder you play the smoother the tone gets and the more the Big Muff opens up and reveals all its subtle nuances. The old treble boosters, fuzz pedals and Big Muffs were designed specifically for loud and powerful tube stacks. You could crank the amp and use these gain pedals to bring it over the edge. This is important to acknowledge. If you can’t get a Muff to work on a small solid state amp then it’s because it wasn’t intended to be used on these amps. However, by the late 70s you had a new generation of gain pedals like the RAT, Boss DS1 and MXR Distortion + and these were designed to capture the tone of a cranked Marshall with a fuzz. Now people could get that fat, creamy tone on their small amps too.
Gilmour keeps his Hiwatts just on the edge of break up. The tubes should be glowing hot but not so much that they’ll start to distort. When you reach a certain volume level, the speakers will start to clip and compress the sound waves. This combination can’t be achieved at home nor with an attenuator. This old school way of achieving a powerful tone was sort of a result of the fact that guitarists didn’t have front stage monitors like today. You had to rely on a huge wall of amps and an insane volume. A good example is Hendrix live in Albert Hall 1969. If he wasn’t deaf after that gig…
But volume isn’t just about how loud you’re able to play but also how to control it and learning how to use the guitar volume control can do wonders to your tone. Hendrix had only one fuzz in his setup but it sounds as if there are several but all he did was to control the amount of gain with the guitar volume. Keep in mind that contrary to a volume pedal, which controls the overall volume, the guitar volume control the amount of signal that’s fed into the chain. The slightest adjustment will roll off harsh overtones and make the Muff sound smoother. Around 5-6 you’ll get a warm overdrive tone and at 2-3 you’re almost on clean. This of course, depends on how hot your pickups are and how saturated the Muff is.
Check out Tip of the week: Tone
for a better understanding of how we perceive tone and what it takes to create the tones you’re looking for.
Boosting
David has always used the Big Muff in combination with a booster or overdrive. Not so much for more gain or volume but more like an EQ enhancing the overall tone spectrum. If needed, he can also add more gain and volume and by using a booster for this, rather than maxing the Muff, you’re able to tame and control the tone more easily.
As you’ll see in the setup examples below both the Muff and booster is set fairly mild with moderate gain and about unity volume with the amp. Again, the vital ingredient is volume and as explained above the more you push the amp the less gain you need from the pedals and the better you get to control the tone. Likewise, the more you’re able to control the tone the more you get to work with it. Using an EQ won’t give you the same result because an EQ doesn’t have any tone on its own and it’s very easy to adjust the wrong frequencies and ruin your tone. A booster the like Colorsound Powerboost or BK Butler Tube Driver has lots of tone and they also allow you to adjust the gain, volume, treble and bass individually.


Electronic Orange Pig Hoof


Blackout Effectors Musket


Sovtek green Big Muff PI
These clips will give you some idea of how a Big Muff sounds alone and with a booster, modulation and delay. The tone changes dramatically with the addition of other pedals, making a single Big Muff very versatile.
There are different opinions about what’s the best way to combine boosters/overdrives with Big Muffs. David always keep transparent sounding boosters like the Colorsound Powerboost and BK Butler Tube Driver after the Muff. This allows the Muff to dominate and the boosters acts as EQs as explained above. Placing these in front of the Muff can take away much of the bass frequencies and it can be hard to find the right amount of gain. Also, using overdrives with too much mid range, like the Tube Screamer, often make the Muff sound dark, muddy and choked.
Compressor and equalizer
Compressors and EQs can often do more harm than good. These are tools and not effects like an overdrive or chorus and they should be used for specific things only. Volume should give you the compression you need but you might want some for your cleans or for creating dynamics in your playing. Leaving it on for your Big Muff + booster combo will add noise, too much gain and feedback. However, if you do need to add compression (more sustain on lower volume), be sure to lower the gain on your Muff with 10-15% and set the booster as clean as possible.
You should always base your tone on your guitar and amp. Never, ever on pedals! An EQ should only be added if the other pedals need something extra like a lower end boost for the RAT or perhaps some mids for the Big Muff. Don’t be fooled by David’s huge collection of EQs in the 80s and 90s. These were assigned for specific tones. As we talked about above, transparent boosters like the Colorsound Powerboost or Tube Driver (or similar) has lots of tone and you can set the treble and bass frequencies to enhance the tonal spectrum of your amp. This is a much more efficient way of shaping your tones than using dedicated EQs.
Read more about how to incorporate compressors and EQs into your tones.
Setups and settings
Which Big Muff model you should choose depends on how you intend to use the pedal and whether or not it works for your setup. I could go on and on about how much I love the green Sovtek or a SUF ram’s head clone but it doesn’t matter much if the pedal doesn’t go with your guitar and amp. Some models are better for recording, while on stage you need one that cuts through the band mix. Likewise, if your amp has a pronounced mid range flavour then a Sovtek might be just a bit too much but a triangle could work very well.
Both the model and what settings you should use depends on how loud you play, where you play, what you’re playing, what other pedals you use and what guitar/pickups and amp you use. There’s very little point in me suggesting settings that sounds amazing on my Reeves amp and Strat if you’re using a Bassman and a Telecaster or perhaps different pickups than I. Use the settings and setups as shown below as a guide and make your own adjustments for the desired tone. I’ve listed both David’s and my setups to give you an idea how you can alter for your rig.
Amp settings:
Clean channel and if possible combine the normal and bright/brilliance channels with a small patch cable in the upper normal and lower bright and plug the guitar into the upper bright. Set the normal slightly higher than the bright and the master to about 1/3 of the normal (regardless if you’ve combined the channels). Bass 50-60%, treble 40-60%, mids 35-50%, presence 40-60%.


Comfortably Numb 1980
1977-83 Animals/David Gilmour/The Wall/Final Cut
David’s typical setup for this period was based on the Black Strat (DiMarzio FS1 bridge pickup 1976-79 and a custom wound Duncan SSL1 bridge pickup 1980-present) and the Pete Cornish 1976 pedal board split into a Hiwatt/WEM rig and Yamaha RA200 rotating speaker cabinets. The Yamahas were mixed lower than the Hiwatts for a mild chorusy tone. The setup was used both on the albums and tours.
David’s setup
Electro Harmoix “ram’s head” Big Muff
- gain 50-60%, tone 40%, volume 50-60%
Colorsound Powerboost
- gain around breakup, treble 9-10:00, bass 12-1:00 (set the master on reissue models to unity)
Electro Harmonix 9V Electric Mistress
- rate 11:30, range 10:30, color 12:00
MXR Digital Delay
- time 370-440ms


Airbag – White Walls
My setup
This setup is based on my DG inspired Strat (Duncan SSL5 bridge pickup) and a Reeves Custom 50w tube head with a Sound City 4×12” cab loaded with Weber Thames 80w ceramic speakers.
Electronic Orange Pig Hoof
- gain 1:00, tone 10:00, volume 12:30
Colorsound Powerboost
- gain 11:00, treble 10:00, bass 12:00 (master level set to slightly above unity)
Electro Harmonix Deluxe Electric Mistress
- Color 10:00, range off, rate 10:00
TRex Replica delay
- tempo 7 (370ms) and 8.5 (440ms)
1994 PULSE
David’s setup was based on the Cornish/Bradshaw effect switching system split into a Hiwatt/WEM+Marshall rig and custom Doppola rotating speaker cabinets. The Doppolas were mixed lower than the Hiwatts for a mild chorusy tone. Essential was also David’s candy apple red Stratocaster loaded with EMG SA pickups and the SPC (around 8) and EXG (usually off) active tone controls.


Comfortably Numb 1994
David’s setup (Comfortably Numb main solo)
Boss CS2
- level 2:00, attack 11:00, sustain 11:30
Sovtek Big Muff Pi “Civil War”
- gain 50-60%, tone 40%, level 50-60%
Chandler Tube Driver
- level 2:00, hi 2:00, low 2:00, drive 8:00
Boss CE2
- speed 11:00, depth 1:00
TC2290 Digital Delay
- time 650ms
My setup (Comfortably Numb main solo)
This set up is based on my ’65 reissue Strat (EMG DG20 pickups, SPC set to 8) and a Reeves Custom 50w tube head with a Sound City 4×12” cab loaded with Weber Thames 80w ceramic speakers.
Boss CS2
- level 2:00, attack 11:00, sustain 11:30
Sovtek green Big Muff Pi
- gain 50-60%, tone 40%, level 50-60%
BK Butler Tube Driver
- level 2:00, hi 11:30, low 2:00, drive 9:00
Boss CE2
- speed 11:00, depth 11:00
Boss DD2 digital delay
- level 11:00, feedback 12:00, time 3:00 (aprox 650ms)
2006 Live in Gdansk
David’s setup was based on the Pete Cornish 2006 On an Island stage board and and the Black Strat (custom wound Seymour Duncan SSL1C bridge pickup) fed into a Hiwatt/WEM rig.


Comfortably Numb 2006
David’s setup (Comfortably Numb main solo)
Pete Cornish P1
- sustain 1:00, tone 10:00, volume 11:00
BK Butler Tube Driver
- level 2:00, hi 2:00, low 2:00, drive 8:00
MXR Digital Delay
- time 650ms with long feedback and moderate level
My setup (Comfortably Numb main solo)
This set up is based on my DG inspired Strat (Duncan SSL5 bridge pickup) and a Reeves Custom 50w tube head with a Sound City 4×12” cab loaded with Weber Thames 80w ceramic speakers.
BYOC Large Beaver “triangle” (old 3-knob model)
- gain 1:30, tone 10:00, volume 13:00
BK Butler Tube Driver
- level 2:00, hi 11:00, low 2:00, drive 9:00
Boss DD2 digital delay
- level 11:00, feedback 12:00, time 3:00 (aprox 650ms)
Budget setup
A Big Muff should be affordable for most budgets. The current Electro Harmonix Big Muff Pi US reissue is a bleak cousin compared the classic models but it’s well worth checking out the new EHX Bass Big Muff Pi, which is very similar to the early Sovtek pedals and David’s PULSE tones. Among the many clones the BYOC Large Beaver is one of the cheaper models and in my opinion one of the best sounding Muffs on the market. Buy a kit from BYOC or a pre-assembled pedal from Axe, And You Shall Receive. A RAT and Boss DS-1 will also do the job and maybe a better choice for solid state amps and typical bedroom setups.
The Tube Driver and Colorsound Powerboost are quite expensive and hard to find in some territories. The Boss BD2 and OD3 are great alternatives for and you might also want to check out the TRex Tone Bug Booster.
Check out Tip of the week: Overdrive and distortion for tips how to set up for smaller amps and bedrooms.


So Far Away
My setup
This is a versatile setup I often use at home or when I gig with friends. I’m usually using a Strat with vintage pickups but no particular amp. Often just a small combo. The RAT can easily be set up for classic Big Muff-ish tones, Hendrix fuzz or more modern rock or metal.
RAT (vintage model)
- gain 1:30, filter 2:00, volume 2:30
Boss BD-2
- level 2:00, tone 10:00, gain 09:00
BYOC Analog Chorus (any chorus will do or the Boss RT20 for rotary tones)
- speed 11:00, depth 11:00
TRex Reptile (any delay will do)
- repeat 4, echo 4.5, level 8 (unity), time 9 (aprox 650ms)
Further reading:
See this feature for tips on how to record your Big Muff tones and this extensive guide to Comfortably Numb and how to achieve the tone.
Please use the comments field and share your favourite Big Muff models and setups!