Guitars

Buying a new guitar is a considerable investment for most of us. To get the best possible experience, it is therefore important that you’ve done some research and decided on what kind of model you’re looking for. In this feature we’ll look at a handful of models with David Gilmour’s tones in mind.

An instrument is all about inspiration. You are the musician and the guitar is the tool you use to express your feelings and music. It may sound like a cliché but you need to be at one with the guitar for the inspiration to flow.

This has nothing to do with what models you choose or how much they cost. You could very well build the guitar yourself from scrap metal but what’s important is that you’re comfortable with holding the guitar in your hands, playing it and the sound it creates.

Some basic knowledge about the different wood types, neck and body profiles, pickups etc will help you in making the best choice.

Fender US, CIJ or MIM?


There’s little doubt that US Fenders are better than Mexicans. That’s kind of the point too, considering that MIM models are Fender’s budget brand (above Squier). However, over the last decade or so, the MIMs has gotten a considerable face lift and the overall quality is very high. In fact, the reason why they are cheaper, ha sless to do with quality but rather lower labour costs, cheaper type of laquer and apply methods etc.

Japanese Fenders are considered to be above the Mexicans and perhaps even just as good as the US. In the 80s and early 90s, Japanese Fenders were well known for being superior to any other models and the quality is still top notch.


Maple or rosewood necks?


Neck wood and contour plays an important role in how the guitar sounds and how it feels to play. Some like thick necks and some prefer a thinner contour. Some like the vintage glossy nitro finish and some prefer the more modern satin finish.

Depending on the radius, thickness and contour of the neck, maples are generally brighter sounding with a bit more top and less mid range. Rosewood necks (or rosewood fretboard) has a slightly warmer tone with more mid range and perhaps an overall more balanced character.

Alder, ash or basswood bodies?


Like the neck, the wood used for the body, and its quality, plays a role in how the guitar sound. Alder is used in most Fender Strats mainly because of its light weight and it’s easy to finish due to minimal grain lines. Alder is also the most neutral sounding of the commonly used wood types with a full tone, well balanced lower end a hint of mid range.

Swamp ash, or southern ash, is considered as the most musical wood and it’s often preferred by the more demanding players. Its high density makes it a bright sounding wood with a strong punch and rich sustain.

Basswood was often used for Japanese Fenders in the 80s and 90s. Although a soft wood, it has a rich and warm tone with a smooth sustain. Basswood has long been favoured by jazz musicians and it can also help to balance a bright punchy maple neck.

Setups

A good tip when you’re trying out new guitars is to focus on how the guitar plays and sound acoustically. Don’t start by plugging it into a loud amp and lots of pedals but listen to the acoustics, the natural resonance and sustain. If this sound and feels right, then it’s a guitar well worth considering.

Pickups can easily be replaced for a more desired tone but you can’t fix a dead resonance. Consider it a bonus if the stock pickups are to your liking.

The string and pickup height and the tremolo action is often set to a so-called factory standardized setup. This can easily be adjusted later on, so don’t dismiss a perfectly good guitar just because the setup isn’t how you normally prefer it. Keep in mind though that there’s a difference between a setup that you don’t like and a bad setup caused by poor assembly and parts.

Squier


Squier is Fender’s budget range. Over the last decade, Squire has regained much of its old reputation of producing high quality instruments for even the tightest budgets.

Squier Classic Vibe
The Classic Vibe series captures the essence of the 50s and 60s models with all the characteristics and looks. These are very good beginners instruments that’ll give you a good start and a classic Strat tone.
Body: alder

Neck: modern C-shape maple (50s) and rosewood fretboard (60s)

Pickups: vintage style single coils “based on” respectively 50s and 60s tones

Pros: light weight and easy to play, classic looks and tone

Cons: hardware and electronics are more or less just for show and should be replaced

Considering the Classic Vibe?

The stock tremolo system can be hard to keep in tune and it may also lack some sustain and resonance. Replace it with a Callaham Vintage S system for better stability and more sustain. To take the guitar up to a pro level, replace the pickups with some Fender Custom Shop 69s or Fat 50s.

Fender Mexico (MIM)


The Mexican models are Fender’s mid range line. From being the black sheep of the catalogue, the MIMs has gotten a thorough face-lift and are now great alternatives to the much more expensive US counterparts.

Fender MIM Standard

The budget version of the legendary American Standard. This model has gone through many changes during the last decade and the result is a very good guitar with a great tone and feel that suits a wide range of genres and styles.

Body: alder

Neck: modern (thin) C-shape maple and rosewood (fingerboard).
Pickups: Fender Standard (hot)

Pros: an overall good entry level guitar with a versatile tone and easy to play neck

Cons: the tremolo system is very unstable and should be replaced

Fender MIM Classic Series

The Classic Series was originally introduced in Japan as the Collectable Series but the production was moved to Mexico and renamed when Fender in the late 90‘s decided to stop the export of Japanese models. The Classic series includes faithful reissues of the original 50s, 60s and 70s models with the best features and tones from each decade. All in all some very fine instruments that’ll give you lots of value for the buck. With a few upgrades, such as better hardware and pickups, you’ll get a guitar that will stand up to any US model.
Body: alder, ash (70s)

Neck: soft V-shape vintage tinted glossy maple (50s), C-shape rosewood fretboard (60s), U-shape maple and rosewood fretboard (70s)

Pickups: vintage style single coils “based on” respectively 50s, 60s and 70s tones

Pros: classic looks, feel and tone, very easy to play

Cons: the tremolo system is very unstable and should be replaced

Fender MIM Road Worn

The Road Worn series are Fender’s budget versions of their popular US Custom Shop Relic models. The aging process looks very authentic and gives the guitar a warm and balanced tone – not least due to the nitro lacquer finish. The black 50s model in particular makes a great basis for your David Gilmour Black Strat project. The only real drawback of these guitars are the necks, which due to the very little finish, can dry out and leave some nasty fret edges.

Body: alder

Neck: soft V-shape maple (50s), C-shape rosewood fretboard (60s)

Pickups: Fender Tex/Mex

Pros: light weight and easy to play, nitro finish for warmer tone and cool relic look

Cons: dry necks and the tremolo system is very unstable and should be replaced

Considering the Road Worns?

The necks have very little lacquer and the wood can dry out easily. Buy a loaded body off eBay and order a custom neck from Warmoth for the best setup. The bridge system can also be replaced by something a bit more reliable, like the Callaham Vintage S system.

Fender Japan (MIJ/CIJ)


Japanese Fenders is a bit tricky to get but it’s well worth the effort. Considered superior to the US Fenders in the 80s and early 90s, the Japanese instruments still holds a very high quality.

Fender CIJ ST series

The ST series feature a wide range of vintage models, standards and even some signature copies. The attention to details and the quality of the wood is in most cases just as good as the US counterparts – in many cases even better. Most models feature Fender Custom Shop Texas Specials pickups, which are similar to the CS69s with a bit more mid range and bite.

Body: alder (most models)

Neck: soft V-shape maple (’57 reissue), C-shape rosewood fretboard (’62 reissue)

Pickups: Fender CS Texas Specials (most models)
Pros: excellent quality guitars for half the price of a US model

Cons: none

Fender America (US)

The US Fenders are all made at the factory in California. Common for all the models is the overall high quality of the electronics, hardware and wood. The US rooster feature a wide range of guitars suitable for Gilmour’s tones, including the Standard, Vintage Series and the many artist and signature models.

Fender American Standard

The recently upgraded model feature a combination of a glossy fretboard and satin back (maple) for better tone and grip, two-point mounted bridge for better tuning stability and a bypassed tone circuits. Compared to the Mexican Standard, the US model feels and sounds noticeably better – hence the price.

Body: alder

Neck: modern C-shape maple and rosewood (fretboard), beveled angles for easier action

Pickups: Fender CS Fat 50s

Pros: overall a very versatile and easy to play guitar

Cons: none

Fender American Vintage

The American Vintage series are faithful reissues of the Standards from the 50s, 60s and 70s. Authentic specs and details, high quality wood and parts makes these a dream to play. Fender reintroduced the series in early 2012 with a new range of guitars – all to get as close to the originals as possible.
Body: alder, ash on some transparent finish models

Neck: soft V-shaped maple (’56), slim D-shape rosewood fretboard (’59), C-shape rosewood fretboard (’65)
Pickups: Fender vintage custom wound ’56, ’59, ’65 respectively
Pros: the closest you’ll get to the original era instruments

Cons: limited colour variations for each model

Fender David Gilmour NOS/Relic Signature
This is a faithful replica of David’s legendary Black Strat in it’s present form, including the 1983 C-shaped 57 reissue maple neck, David’s preferred shortened trem arm and the mini toggle pickup blender switch. The Relic model also feature all those little dings and scratches as the original. After a period of tests, David decided on slightly different pickups for the Signature, mainly the Fender CS Fat 50’s in the neck, as opposed to the 1971 in his own guitar.

Body: alder

Neck: C-shape maple with glossy nitro finish

Pickups: Fender Fat 50s (N), Fender Custom Wound (M), S Duncan SSL5 (B)
Pros: great sounding, classic tones with an easy to play neck

Cons: expensive

If you’re a Les Paul guy but want something that’ll cover David’s tones, then check out some of the P90s or 50s style humbucker (PAF) Les Pauls and SGs for a tone similar to Strats.

Feel free to use the comments field below and share your thoughts on this guide and your experience with other models!


339 Responsesso far.

  1. Phil says:

    Another update after almost 2 months of having the Callaham system on my Strat:

    So it works fine and no more cracking from the neck or something. I changed string gauges from 9 to then 10 though which might have helped, although that shouldn’t really make a difference I suppose …

    It is set up lush to the body, but still detunes after playing solos and stuff and I figured out why: The nut is causing it! The strings are getting stuck there, so I lubricated them with Big Bends Nut Sauce (I find that name hilarious :D) and it has helped, but still not perfect.

    So Bjorn, let’s say you play to the whole “Coming back to Life” which, as you know, involves 3 Solos and 2 rhythm parts. Does your guitar stay (completely) in tune during this?
    I’m trying to figure out what to expect from a good tremolo system. Surely it will always detune a little bit after doing bends/solos, so I assume this is normal?!

    Thanks for your input!

    • Bjorn says:

      I always spend a bit of time stretching the strings and tuning it up properly before rehearsal, recording or stage but once it’s tuned it pretty much stays in tune throughout a show unless I do something really crazy with the arm.
      The most common issue is friction so a bit of lubrication on the nut and the saddles (even if they’re new) is often needed. Make sure that you have good quality tuners and that they are properly fastened and that you have the right balance between the plate screws and the claw screws. Keep in min too that proper stringing is crucial for keeping the guitar in tune. The technique obviously depends on what tuning keys you have.

      • Phil says:

        Yeah I think I’ve done all those things. I should look into the plate and claw screws again though and the nut might need some further lubricating and/or rasping. Mostly it is specifically the low E and B string that seem to get out of tune the most, so kinda odd I guess …
        I did swap the tuners from standard ones to vintage style, which required me to drill new holes in the neck, but I think the tuners are fine.

  2. Tom says:

    Good day. Just discovered this site and first of all I just want to say it’s excellent. After a bit of advice. I own a Standard MIM HSS in a die for Lake Placid blue (well I like it lol).. and play it through a BOSS Katana 50. So far so good. If you owned this set up what changes would you make to the Strat to improve all round sound? And as a matter of interest is it easy enough to change from a HSS to a SSS? Thanks for the advice in advance.

    • Bjorn says:

      Hi Tom! As discussed in the feature, you can always consider replacing or upgrading the pickups and hardware but that’s often more down to taste rather than performance, although I would say that swapping the stock trem system, nut and perhaps the post for something better often pays off. Good quality cables also does wonders. I don’t have any experience with swapping the humbucker for a single coil but I’m sure there are lots of tutorials out there with some tips. Cheers!

  3. Victor Hugo says:

    Great article Bjorn!
    I have a Squier Classic Vibe 50s. Now i’m changing all pickups to ssl5/cs 69/fat 50s. Which capacitors do you recommend? The stock capacitor are good?

    Thanks for all!

    • Bjorn says:

      I haven’t really thought about that in regards to the Squire guitars. In any case it depends on what you want the cap to do.

  4. Fabrizio says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    What modern lap still guitar should I buy that clone Gilmour sound?
    Thanks very much

    • Bjorn says:

      Any model would do I guess. David’s yellow Fender has the original Fender pickups, while the red Jedson has an EMG humbucker. They are fairly hot so you might want to consider replacing less hot pickups with something hotter depending on what steel you buy. Effectswise, he pretty much just use a bit of compression, overdrive/fuzz and delay.

  5. Phil says:

    Hey Bjorn,
    I am looking into replacing the Tremolo system on my Black Strat, which is based on a Mexican. You suggested the Callaham and I actually found a dealer in Germany :) Quite expensive, but do you think it’s worth getting the Mexican Standard upgrade package, which claims to give you the vintage style sound, feel and stability?
    I am starting to become unhappy with the standard Tremolo system, which also makes my Tremolo arm fall down every time…

    • Bjorn says:

      I have Callaham on all my Strats and couldn’t be happier. It’s a huge improvement. I can only speak for myself but I do highly recommend it.

      • Phil says:

        Alright you got me… Ordered! :D

        • Phil says:

          So I installed it myself (first time ever doing that) and I have managed to set it up quite nicely, although there is some more fine-tuning required, which I will get to in the next couple of days. It stays in tune quite well, but not as consistent as it can be I think…
          One of the few problems is, when doing bends, that I can hear one of the springs “pop”, so I will try and solve that by replacing it with another. Also when doing bends on the B string I can hear the neck sort of “cracking”… I assume that’s because it’s not set up quite right yet.

          If you have any tips or know, how to solve these issues Bjorn, feel free to enlighten me ;)
          Thanks, as always, in advance!

          • Bjorn says:

            Could be a number of things and hard to suggestion anything without having examined your guitar. You should allow the guitar to settle a bit though and make some addional adjustments after a week or two depending on how much you play.

            • Phil says:

              OK thanks! I’m gonna look at the intonation today and set that up and then let it settle in and maybe that will resolve some of the issues over time.

              • Phil says:

                Update: All fixed now and I got it set up the way I want it :) After cleaning up and adjusting the saddles as well as the truss rod the “popping” and “cracking” is gone. One thing I need to do still is rasp the nut to avoid strings getting stuck there ;)
                Other than that, love the Callaham system!

  6. Oriol says:

    Hi Bjorn! Can you review this guitar??

    https://www.thomann.de/es/harley_benton_st_57dg_black_tribute.htm

    I found it thought the net and I want to know the overall quality and sound for it’s price. At least if the wood it’s good is a good point for a “low cost” black start project.

    Thanks!

    • Bjorn says:

      Not familiar with the brand. I wouldn’t expect too much for that price.

      • Oriol says:

        I’ve seen so many people talking about this brand, the pedals are crap but guitars even don’t having an ultra high class finish (some can have lil scratches or cheap electronics(easy to replace)) people say that sound really well. I’ve a cab loaded with 2 V30 from them and sounds really nice but the tolex can be better. That’s why I say low cost black strat, well or nice sounding guitar with the black strat look and easy to afford.

    • Diogo Martins says:

      This guy usually does pretty entertaining and extensive reviews on Joyo/Mooer/cheaper stuff, although i havent seen the video yet:

    • Diogo Martins says:

      Oh (and I hope Bjorn doesn’t mind me posting the link here) but I bought this one for my black strat project: https://www.muziker.pt/sx-vintage-st-57-bk and slapped a black 1-ply pickguard, because it was cheaper, the shipping was cheaper and, to my surprise, the headstock is not like in the image but actually exactly like a fender. In fact I bought two of them just to switch the neck on my squier standard. Just be aware that they can be pretty good or pretty shitty, in that price range its pretty much a hit-or-miss :/

  7. GP says:

    Hi Bjorn, how do you set up your tone pots on the strat?

  8. James Tea says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    I have a Gibson L6S and recently started playing my friends telecaster. Somehow I really like the tone of his single coil neck pickup. I experimented with trying to find this quality tone from the L6S and I noticed.. the action is very straight and low on the Telecaster, but progressively higher on the Gibson as it approaches the pickups. First, I thought the Gibson’s nut is too low, but then I noticed that the fret wire on the L6S is twice as thick as the telecaster, making the space between the frets also shorter. I think this accounts for the better clarity of the Telecaster.

    Do you agree? I would like to buy a new guitar, maybe something that has both hum-buckers and a single coil.
    I wonder if you have any suggestions, or any thoughts about this fret wire thickness as well. I just feel the L6S neck is too long, and the frets too thick and probably too high.

    Thanks in advance,

    James

    • Bjorn says:

      Neck profiles and fret wire size is very much a matter of taste and how comfotable you are with different specs. I’d try different models just to get an idea of the differences. Bigger frets are often preferred for better sustain and clarity.

  9. Francesco Cagmacci says:

    Hi Bjorn, what do you think of the new American Professional series and the new V-Mod Pickups, are they good for Gilmour tones?
    Greeting from italy!

    ~Francesco

    • Bjorn says:

      The specs list doesn’t say what output the pickups have but I guess the SSS Strat would be a nice alternative for David’s tones.

  10. Sebastien says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    I’m trying to modify a CIJ Strat to the Division Bell Red Strat specs. I have put some EMG SA active pickups in it. Do you know if David’s Red strat, which is a Fender 80’s Reissue, has the Old style “made of Steel” block ans saddles like the Pre-CBS Fenders (and like Callaham Strat Bridge)?

    Or was that Bridge made out of cast alloy Mazak like the CBS 70’s strat? Or Brass?
    i.e when CBS made those Fender 62 and 57 RI in 1983, did they go back to Steel Bridges and saddles at the same time?

    Thank you for your help!
    regards,

    Sebastien

  11. Toby Harris says:

    Hey Bjorn….how about a little section on telecasters?

    • Bjorn says:

      I’ll put it on the list :)

    • Alexis says:

      I can’t agree more about a Telecaster section, and maybe a Telecaster pickups section too. Seems to be a recurring demand lately, Bjorn! ;)

      I’m myself after a Telecaster, but don’t know exactly which model to buy. I had a try on a Classic Player Baja 50’s Telecaster and an American Elite Telecaster. I liked both and was very impressed by the Fender Noiseless PUs on the American Elite, they don’t have as much compression as the previous Noiseless pickups, but they lack just a little bit of brightness that the Baja had. But the new truss rod adjustment system and the locking tuners really are a good improvement.

      I know the Classic Vibe Telecasters are good too, but I didn’t had time to try them at the shop.

      Does anyone had experience with the Baja to share, or other good Telecaster models?

      Cheers!

      Alexis

      • Bjorn says:

        I’ll try to include a couple of models in the Buyer’s Guide. The Baja is great, with a nice blend of vintage and more modern specs. Great build and tone and the neck profile is realy nice. It’s well worth checking out the Squier Classic Vibes Teles too and the 50s Butterscotch in particular. Great quaility and classic tones.

      • Toby Harris says:

        I have an American elite tele…..stunning,but couldn’t bond with the pickups.I popped a set of bareknuckle flat 50’s and changed all wiring,pots,switch to vintage style with an orange drop cap and treble bleed mod.Huge tonal improvement.

  12. Dear Bjorn

    One discussion I read little about is lap steel guitars. I was looking for a Jedson or a fender Deluxe but either one , when found is over $1,00 US.

    In doing some research I found the Teisco H-905.

    It’s a MIJ double pickup lapsteel from the late 60’s/early 70’s much like the Jedson and can be found in very good shape for $300 or even a bit less. It’s a six-string, metal nut (like the jedson) but doesn’t have a “string-through-body” tail but rather a plate attached to the body making surface contact. The pickups are the typical Teisco pickups from that era, described as “not too hot, not too cold”. Do you (or anyone else reading this) know anything about the Teisco H-905 and it’s tone in regards to Gilmour’s tone on Breath, Great Gig in the Sky, etc?

    (Note: i’m currently using a 1953 Gretsch Electromatic with delay, slight overdrive, univibe and a Strymon Lex…really get’s that tone going…). i just want something that feels and looks more like Gilmour’s Jedson. Any thoughts?

  13. Carlos says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    Congrats on the upcoming release of your new album. I can’t wait to listen to it. I have a question about lap steel guitars. From what I have seen, David plays lap steel guitars that are no longer in production. When I saw David on his last tour, I noticed Jon Carin playing some lap steel guitar. What kind does he play? Do you recommend any brand? Cheers!

    • Bjorn says:

      I have very little experience with lap steels as I prefer playing slide on a regular guitar. Jon was playing a 1950s Rickenbaker BD lap steel. I assume it belongs to David but there are no official reports on this.

  14. Phil Moisey says:

    Bought a black MIM strat with maple neck last week. I already had a sunburst MIM strat and black MIA strats both with rosewood necks that I’ve played for the last 17 years. I’ve never plucked up the courage to modify those two strats, I ,love them too much, and didnt want to risk spoiling them, but have always fancied trying modifiying a strat. This weekend I fitted the new project strat with locking schaller tuners and a callaham 6 point pridge assembly. I then followed a really good YouTube video to set up the trem the action and the intonation and the neck relief. The transformation was absolutely amazing. It has overnight become my go to guitar. It stays in tune perfectly whatever I do to the trem, it sounds great, and it is really nice to play. I wish I’d had a go at this years ago, it is such fun, and so rewarding. I’ve an overdrive Black Strat pickguard on order for the next step :)

  15. Eren says:

    Hi Bjorn, I will buy a Stratocaster and I have two choices. Fender Classic Player 60s and Fender American Standard. Money is not problem for me I just wanna buy a good guitar. Did you try these before and Which would you prefer/Why ?

    Thanks a lot!

    • Bjorn says:

      Both are excellent guitars so it’s more a matter of which you’re most comfortable with. No point in me recommending one if you don’t like how it feels and sits in your hands. As described in this guide, the Standard has more modern features and slightly higher output pickups. The Classic Player is kind of a mix between the American Vintage/Mexican Classic and the Standard, with both modern and vintage specs. To me, the most important thing is how the guitar feels. Pickups can be replaced later.

  16. Gerard Smulevich says:

    Hey Bjorn! I just noticed this detail about Gilmour’s Black Strat: This is a video of DG playing ComfortableyNumb (I’m sure you’re familiar with this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5Ht6WIhhmU

    In the frame 3:54-3:355 you can clearly see the neckplate is BENT because of how tight the neck screws are. Just an anecdote and maybe useful to people who are freaked out about their neck plates not being 100% flat on the body. Cheers!

  17. Carlos says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    I’m really excited about the new album. Congrats to you for making this happen. I have a question regarding shielding a guitar. Do you shield your guitars? Does David Gilmour’s guitars have shielding? Pardon me if this has been asked before.

    Cheers!

    • Bjorn says:

      Hi Carlos! Thanks for the support! I think David’s black Strat has some shielding under the pickguard. I shield all my Strats with copper foil covering the whole cavity. It makes a difference but the best result is when you combine this with good quality cables.

  18. John says:

    Is there any way to achieve gilmourish tones with say, a Les Paul?

  19. NIco says:

    Hi bjorn,
    it’s me again!! If buying a used guitar is dangerous, there are also Japanese classic series 50s in basswood (vintage pickups) or in alder (texas special pickups), but it seems that one model out of two does not sound the same, and that quality is very inconstant. Can these japanese classic series be better than the mexicans? Is it a good option compared to a used 57 reissue?
    Thanks for all you do!

    • Bjorn says:

      As much as the Mexican Strats are worth checking out, and they have been immensly improved lately, I think the Japanese guitars are supperior in every way. That’s my experience at least and I’ve owned several. What’s important when you buy online and used, is that you trust the seller and if possible, get some feedback from previous customers.

      • NIco says:

        Thank you very much, your advice is always a very great help! I will change the pickups of my upcoming Strat soon but not now (money will come later!). So for the same price (800 €) I can get a CIJ Strat 50s in alder with texas special pickups and a CIJ Strat 50s in basswood with vintage pickups! What is the most judicious choice? (For information I have a Laney L5 Studio) Thanks a lot!

        • Bjorn says:

          I think both guitars will do the job. What’s ultimately the case is whether you like it or not. Both will provide the tones you’re looking.

  20. NIco says:

    Hi Bjorn!!
    I found a used candy apple red japanese strat on the net for 45000 yen (400 € without taxes), it is a ST57-66US but it is said that the neck is oval … so it is not a soft v or c neck ?? Otherwise it looks very good, but I wanted to have precision before buy it… It was manufactured in 2008. There are also ST70-TX strats on some japanese websites(texas special pickups and not us vintage). Is this a good investment and what about the neck? Thank you so much! Cheers !!

    • Bjorn says:

      I think those models are great. Great value. Not sure what they mean by “oval”. I guess all necks are somewhat oval. I’d ask for a more presice spec. All of the Japanese Strats come with, or at least came with, Texas Specials. They’re OK but for David’s tones I’d consider swapping them for something a bit more vintage sounding. Try them and decide for yourself :)

  21. Gerard Smulevich says:

    Hey Bjorn, everybody: Just wanted to report back on what I foudn so far to be my best Black Strat build to date. First I spent some time at Guitar Center Hollywood where they actually have a Gilmour Signature (NOS version) on dsiplay and they let you play it in the “special” room. Very nice, smooth , easy to play. So I took mental note, tried to become familiar with it plugged into a Fender amp clean, low volume.

    It took me a few months, but I collected and assembled a Black Strat with a 1992 AVRI Maple neck I found on Craigslist for around $380 with original frets very worn down . I had it re-fretted with 6105’s and a bone nut by Eric Chaz in Van Nuys. Then I bought a lightly yet visibly worn 2006 Eric Johnson nitro body (4lbs 2 oz) for $325 off of Reverb. THAT WAS KEY. The EJ body is probably the best quality strat from any production model, approaching a CS 2-piece alder and thin nitro finish. Then I added a custom pickguard with the “hidden” switch and the following pickups: Onomac Windery (Terry Learned) hand scatter-wound “Custom 69″ neck pickup ($59), an AY CS ’69 middle and an SS-5 in the bridge. Added a .022 Vitamin Q cap and a Treble Bleed on the volume pot. Last but not least, a Killer Guitar Components Brass Megablock termolo block + Raw Vintage springs. The Brass block added sustain and a fullness without making the guitar brighter at all. Also PAT PENDING Fender saddles…. It SOUNDS AMAZING, plays like butter, bends are easy (using Thomastik Blues 10’s…highly recommend them for this build). Anyway…..

  22. Mariano says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I would love to see some review for loopers/switchers.
    There are many out there from cheap to very expensive ones.
    Do you use yourself?
    Cheers

  23. carmen says:

    I’m just curious on your take of the PRS 305? Have you played it? And if so what are your thoughts? It’s basically their take on a Strat. It has 3 single coils and a 5 way switch. I played one about a month ago and was floored by not only the sound but the comfortability, the action ect. I’m a Strat guy, always have been for the last 20 years. But I found this to be a better version of a Strat. Basically if the Stratocaster was an animal in nature, the PRS 305 would be what the Strat would have evolved into millions of years from now. I ended up buying one the other day and am thrilled with it. I own and have played everything under the sun and this is really hard to beat in my mind. Any thoughts?

  24. Tony Samperi says:

    Another useful article. Do you have any suggestions about blocking the tremolo arm in position? Both in my American and MIM Strat, the arm goes too down!

  25. Dave L says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    Just wanted to say great site, i heard it mentioned in the Keeley Dark Side vid on youtube and looked it up straight away.
    I’ve already got the backing tracks downloaded for the songs i play and few more to give me the incentive to learn some new stuff.
    I’ve put in a pre-order for the dark side peddle as seems to be a decent bit of kit with some good flexibility next on the list will be a decent delay, i’ll look in the peddle section for recommendations.

    I’m lucky, i’ve got a custom shop Gilmour NOS Strat but spent years playing Gilmour stuff on a Lite ash strat (wish i’d kept it) and an Eric Johnson. All of the strats i have used you can coax some great Gilmour sounds from, and all were different – neck radius, neck profile, trem (2 post or 6 screw), electrics (fender pickups or Seymour Duncan’s), etc.
    At the end of the day it comes down to what feels good for the player, if it feels right you play it more and don’t want to put it down – as long as it’s a Strat it’ll do the job.

    Keep up the good work

  26. David Du says:

    how are you, Bjorn,
    I’m here to ask your advice about the Warmoth parts. I remember you ever mentioned that warmoth parts are good, but better go for the higher level ones. I have a Warmoth body (aprox.200€ ), which might just a normal level, and combined with a fender standard neck.Now I want to try a warmoth neck, maybe just a normal level, 200€, Maple, with nitrolacquer vintage tint gloss, middle size 22 fret, C shape, with some little Birdseyes. what do you think? I never try a Warmoth neck before. or should I just go for a Vintage 57us black? really need your advice, no pressure.
    Thanks a lot!

    • Bjorn says:

      You need to decide what specs you want but I got a couple of Warmoth necks and bodies and I’m very happy with them. Excellent work.

      • David Du says:

        thanks for your feedback! I want get a neck which is vintage 57 style, like V shape, 21 frets.and high quality woods of neck. I even started to go for the usa vintage 57 these days.

  27. Manas says:

    Hey Bjorn!

    Amazing article. I am a beginner and love Gilmour’s tone. I own a squier but I changed the pickups to Fat50, Texas special and Duncan ssl5. It sounds much better. I am thinking of buying a tele and find the Fender Modern Player Telecaster Plus very interesting. What do you think about this guitar. Have you tried it?

    Manas

  28. Tomás Acuña says:

    Hey Bjorn, I’m looking forward to buy a Seagull S6 Original as my first acoustic guitar (I play electric guitar) have you played them? They get a lot of praise over the web for being at a good price and quality. Best regards

  29. Nicolas says:

    Hello Bjorn,
    Very good job for this article!(I’m a you’d french fan of David’s tone!)
    I want to build a red strat, but I can’t afford a 57′ reissue…
    So I wanted to buy a CS 50, I know this is a great guitar, but I saw there was a Fender Classic 50 Strat Texas Special made in Japan. The specs seem to be great and there is a thin c shape neck like David. I can’t try it now and I would know your opinion about it!
    Thanks!

    • Bjorn says:

      All my Strats are Japanese. They’re awesome!

      • Nicolas says:

        Hi Bjorn,
        I’ve never seen any 57′ reissue in the fender shop so where can we find a 57′ (and if it’s possible a CIJ) and what is the price? As I said the classic 50 tex spec seems to be good, but I saw also the cs50 lacquer which include a nitrocellulose finish (is it a good investissement, is it good to add 320 euros to have this finish?)
        Are the tax as special pickups better than the vintage single coils. And if I buy one of these guitars, should I replace the pickups (tex spec or vintage style) for a set with a ssl5 cs69 and fat50s like Gilmour?
        Thanks a lot!

        • Bjorn says:

          CIJ guitars are harder to find these days due to export resrictions but you can always spot them on EBay and selected retailers online. The TS pickups has a vintage flavour, with slightly more mid range and output compared to the 50s and 60s models. Try them first and hear how they sound with your amp and pedals, before replacing them.

          • Nicolas says:

            And what’s about the nitrocellulose finish? I know It’s better, but is it a good deal to add 320€!!

            So it will be very difficult to find a 57 reissue!!
            Now I hesitate between five guitars!!!

            -Fender Stratocaster Stratocaster Classic Series ’50s (MEX, MN) fiesta red
            829 € (euroguitar my guitar shop)
            Very classic!!!

            -Fender Stratocaster Special Edition ’50s FSR (MEX, MN) Rangoon Red
            749 € (euroguitar my guitar shop)
            The same specs as the cs50 but an other colour (a little different) and cheaper

            -Fender Stratocaster Classic ’50s Japan Ltd (JAP, MN) Old Candy Apple red TS
            999 € (euroguitar my guitar shop)
            On Ratuken it’s 738€ !!!
            This is the Tex Spec with TS pickups and a slim c profil neck ( the others have all a v-soft)

            -Fender Stratocaster Classic Series ’50s Lacquer (MEX, MN) candy apple red
            1139€ (euroguitar my guitar shop)
            naturally more expensive but do the benefits justifie the cost??

            -Fender Japan Exclusive Series Classic 50 s Strat, Maple Fingerboard, and Old Candy Apple Red
            583€
            (Only on Rakuten)
            Same spec as the Tex Spec but Custom Vintage-Style pickups

            —>If Rakuten is areliable website, i’d go for the last one,
            But if not i’d check the Special ’50s FSR Rangoon Red…

            What do you mind, what would be your choice?

            • Bjorn says:

              All of these are fine instruments so it comes down to what specs you prefer. I can’t tell you that, as it is, and should be, a very personal experience. I’d go down to your local guitar store and try a couple of Strat’s with similar specs and decide upon that.

      • Nicolas says:

        Sorry for the repeat, I didn’t saw my post ;-) . On Rakuten Global Market, we can find some CIJ strats for 600-700€. Is it a good website??

  30. Dear Bjorn:

    if you had to choose between a 2010 Road Worn Body and a somewhat beat-up but workable 1992 ’57 AVRI body, both for the same price: Which would you choose in terms of sound/tone/ character for a Black Strat Build?

    • Bjorn says:

      I’m sure there are many purists out there with different opinions about this but I don’t think it really matters in terms of tone. Perhaps you would notice a slightly darker tone from the Road Worn. More mids perhaps due to the wear and aging but I’m sure you would have to do a proper A/B test to really be able to tell the difference. It’s more a matter of feel and how well that body fits in with the neck and the amp and pedals you are using.

  31. David Du says:

    hi Bjorn,
    I found the neck is very important to the tone of the whole guitar, I already have a black strat with a US standard neck, what do you think if I change a Fender vintage neck? or CS neck? the body is alder warmoth black vintage style, the pickups are CS 69+CS 69+SSL5, with 10-46 strings.
    what I want to know, if the higher level neck will provide a better tone.

    • Bjorn says:

      It might but it depends on how well that neck fits in with the body. We’re talking nuances here and it’s often more of a feel, than anything else but in my experience, different wood, shapes and laqcuer has an impact on the tone. The modern Fender necks, sounds brighter to me, while a 50s or 60s neck, with a nitro finish, often sound smoother yet with a nice bite.

      • David Du says:

        Thanks Bjorn!
        and what do you think the Custom Shop series? Does it worth the money to get better tone?

        • Bjorn says:

          Well, that’s the big question, isn’t it? Despite that I’m a tone fanatic, I’ve never owed a Custom Shop guitar. First, they’re very expensive here in Norway, and I never buy guitars online, and second, I don’t think they’re worth the price considering that you can get a Japanese Fender for half the price and the same quality or, get a Mexican, which is also very good, but mod it with new pickups etc for even less. The price tag on a Custom Shop US made guitar is so much more than just quality and sound.

          • David Du says:

            Thanks Bjorn, I’m enjoying my MIA Fender strat, and just want to know if I can get more from CS, now I realize I might be wrong, your tone is on your fingers.Thank you !

  32. Bjorn: Los Angeles here! So over the last few months I built up my Black Strat on a 50’s MIM Roadworn strat that I picked up for $600 from a friend with HSC, etc etc. Installed a custom pick-guard with the radiused edge and “hidden switch”, Callaham tremolo block and shortened arm. Cs69x2 + Duncan SS5. The works. Sounds very very nice. Then I went to Guitar Center and tried out a Gilmour Signature strat. The only real difference upfront was the neck. THAT NECK! I was surprised how easy I could still bend on vintage-style frets. My Roadworn neck by comparison while it feels good in in my hands is a bit “slinky ” and loose by comparison. So…I started searching for an 80’s/90’s AVRI ’57 neck. Prices on Ebay were $500, $600. Hard to find at any price. Now (just two days ago) I scored off of Craigslist in LA a 1992 Black ’57 AVRI strat with an identical neck to the Gilmour sig (yellow tint, C profile good condition, with very worn vintage style frets) and a pretty beat-up nitro body although not damaged; replacement pickups (SD’s) but all original pots dated 1991. I paid $700! After restringing with my fav strings (Rotosound 10-46) It plays fantastic to where I don’t miss the taller frets of my Roadworn 50’s. Tone wise the SD pu’s are a bit characterless and lacking deep lows and nothing compares to the SS5 on the bridge. So my question to you: Would you first swap the pick-guard/electronics from the Roadworn onto the AVRI, or would you switch necks between bodies, installing the AVRI neck onto the loaded Roadworn Body?

    • Bjorn says:

      Thanks for sharing Gerard! Hard to answer that one. I would start with swapping the necks and see how that felt. Very easy…

      • Gerard Smulevich says:

        Update: I placed the 1992 ’57 AVRI neck (re-fretted with 6105’s) on an Eric Johnson black nitro body I bought used on Reverb. Added a KGC Megamass brass trem block. Pickups pretty much what you recommend (I switched out the neck CS69 for an Onomac Windery Custom 69 handwound beauty). The guitar feels so good!. It’s easier to play and has more resonance than the Roadworn 50’s build. After having played a Fender Custom Shop Gilmour strat, I can say that this comes very close and actually is easier to play in terms of bending because of the taller frets. I wonder if you guys out in Europe have heard of Kerry Learned and his Onomac pickups. They are fantastic and inexpensive ($145 for a full set and he winds them to order, by request). The Custom 69 has a deep clear tight tone that works very well for the lead in Shine on, maybe a bit more character and “stratiness” at the 12th fret than the Fender CS 69.

  33. William says:

    For us in the States:

    Sigler Music offers some reasonable MIM Strats. I bought one last year and I am very happy with my purchase:

    http://www.siglermusiconline.com/collections/stratocaster?constraint=black

  34. Brad says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I’m thinking about looking into a lap steel to learn High Hopes (and others). Do you have any recommendations for a Gilmourish pedal steel that’s readily available in the marketplace?

    Thanks!

    • Bjorn says:

      Oh… to be very honest, I have very little experience with lap steels. I play slide on regular guitars. Anyone?

  35. Arshad says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    I have a query regarding maple fretboard. There are two different colour of maple fretboard and David have a darker tone maple fretboard. What is the difference between them?

    Also will you recommend laney cub 8 for bedroom setup and tight budget?

    • Bjorn says:

      David’s necks are 1957 reissues, which has a nitrocellulose laquer, with a slight colouration for a vinatage look. The more modern necks, like the Standard series, have satin or poly urethante laquer, which has a more transparent look and a slightly more shiny or glassy texture. There are different opinions about this, but in my experience, nitro sound warmer, while urethane sound brighter. Obviously, it also depends on the wood, thickness of the neck and frets.

  36. Carmen says:

    What are your thoughts on the strats with the active pickups in them? Or active pickups in general?

    • Bjorn says:

      Depends on what tones you want and, I guess, how serious your noise problems are. Most of the active pickups sound less vintage than passive 50s, 60s and 70s era pickups but in case of replicating David Gilmour’s tones, you can really beat the EMG DG20s for the Pulse tones.

  37. Carmen says:

    Can you tell me more about the Bill Lewis guitar? I have always wondered about it after watching Pompeii many years ago. Was it a rare guitar? Until reading your website I had no idea who made it. All I know is it sounded great in the movie.

  38. Ryan says:

    Hey Bjorn,
    Any thoughts on Nash guitars?? Thank you.
    Ryan

  39. dan chapman says:

    Hey Born,

    Love your site!
    I’m looking to sell some current gear and buy a head (got a cab I’m happy with) and strat, my budget will be around £1000/€14000 for both.

    Any recommendations, seems to be soo many options on the market today I don’t know where to begin!

    Thanks
    Dan

    • Bjorn says:

      What are you looking for? Modern or vintage? Versatile or tone specific? Let me know, and I’ll try to suggest something.

      • dan chapman says:

        Well I have just purchased a Japanese squier based on a 62 strat.

        So now it’s just the amp.
        I’d like a vintage fender ish style head for gilmour style leads and various blue genres. Also being able to take pedals well is important for me.

        Thanks for the reply!

        • Bjorn says:

          How about tracking down a vintage Fender Bassman 100 head? They’re fairly cheap and they sound awesome. Very easy to dial in and works great with most Gilmour pedals. I also warmly recommend the Laney Lionheart L20. Not actually a Fender, more an early Marshall meets Vox, but it’s so much more than that and extremely versatile.

  40. David E says:

    I am quite curious, Bjorn, as to what you think of the new Fender American Elite Strat, especially the playability and the tone of the new noiseless pickups. Have you had a chance to get your hands on one yet? A review would be quite interesting.

  41. Slippery Fingers says:

    Always fantastic information, absolutely brilliant, well done.

  42. David Du says:

    hi, Bjorn,
    still me here!
    I need your suggestion now, no pressure, just ask an advice from you.
    Now I have 2 strat guitars:

    1. 1995 America standard:
    Neck: Maple with Rosewood fingerboard.
    Body: Alder
    Bridge: 2-point tremolo
    Pickups: CS Texas,(have Fender Lace Gold set as backup)

    2. Black strat:
    Neck: Maple fingerboard (from a 1996 American Strat).
    Body: Warmoth Alder body
    Bridge: 6-point tremolo
    Pickups: ssl-1, CS69, Texas (SSL-5)

    I don’t know if the maple has big difference with rosewood, because I tried a lot, the 2 starts are almost the same in tone. but I like them both, it’s hard to keep one and sell another. can please give me advice that which one could be better to use to play DG’s song and some blues style music?
    or any other way to differ them? such as loading Lace PU on No.1 strat?
    Thanks, appreciate your advice..

    • Bjorn says:

      I find this almost impossible to answer because instruments are so much down to subjective taste and preference. I’m sure they sound very similar and although wood has some influence on the tone, it’s more about the pickups and electronics. You do have the opportunity to have two different sounding guitars by installing the Lace pickups in one. Other than that… you need to decide which is better if you’re considering selling.

      • David Du says:

        Thanks Bjorn! I will try to use different PUs to defer them.

      • David Du says:

        hi, Bjorn
        just slide a thought that, how about I take a Tele as second fender? will the tele has different tone with strat? could you please help to give your suggestion?

        • Bjorn says:

          A Tele sounds both similar and very different to a Strat. Obviously, the pickups etc plays a role but while most Teles have single coils and that Stratty flavour, they’re often much more twangy, brighter and perhaps not as versatile for heavier tones… although some will argue with that. My experience with Teles is that they’re awesome for cleans and specific tones, while a Strat is often more versatile.

  43. David Du says:

    Thanks! I may try it later, the single bridge pickup works fine with me.

  44. DAvid Du says:

    I heard David Gilmour was using 7 way switch, which can provide a combo of bridge+neck pickup. and this switch indeed exist in Fender CS DG signature. My question is, so far as you know, did David Gilmour use this 7 way switch on his black strat?

    • Bjorn says:

      There is additional switch on the guitar allowing more pickup combinations. Read more about the Black Strat here. As far as I, and other can tell, he rarely use it but on the 2006 On an Island tour, he did use it for the first solo on Comfortably Numb and the solo on Time.

  45. adam-o says:

    Enjoying all the geeky and thoughtful Strat love…this is my kind of place. Question for you all…, limited budget for a new strat, but looking for the glassy thing but with more tone…meaty, like David’s. Have a great partscaster that is close, a 2004 Highway one that is too thin sounding, and a 2000 American Deluxe that is better, but still too thin for me tonewise. With my budget, looking at G&Ls, 1970s Strats, and the newer American Standard with the fat 50s pickups. Or, I could put new pups in in one of the old guys…. Lots of people dismiss the 70s strats, but not sure how many people a/b’d them with other strats to see if they really sounded that much worse. Thoughts??

    • Bjorn says:

      Well, this is the huge debate on whether different wood will have an impact on the tone or not. I think it does, and my experience tells me so, but it doesn’t matter as much as what pickups you use, how you’ve set these, the amp, pedal etc. My experience with Strats is that I have never played a guitar that sound thin, as in thin and useless. However, low output single coils, set low (too far from the strings) on a brighter sounding amp and the “wrong” pedals to go with it, will sound bad. I think the most important thing is that you chose a guitar that feels right and then, change the pickups, tweak your amp and pedals… That being said, all of the guitars you mention are worth checking out.

  46. Roger Sartori says:

    Hi, Bjorn.
    I’m blessed I made my dream come true and purchased a new Fender Custom Shop David Gilmour NOS stratocaster! It’s an awesome guitar! but…
    I had Squiers that came with better adjustments than this very expensive guitar. The bridge adjustment is painful! It really sucks! Practically no action on it! Strings were set too low, big troubles on making bends! Pickups were also set too low. Anyway, some reajustments I made myself… it’s 100%, but it’s OK now.

    • Bjorn says:

      Congrats Roger! I wouldn’t base my judgement on a factory setup. Looks, contour and tone should matter. The setup should always be something you perform based on taste and technique :)

  47. Hi Bjorn ,Had a problem trying to find a good tremolo to fit my Fender Squier . Then I came across a guy named Keith Hurley on Ebay. Selling his own spec on Callaham ,what is really good is that he makes blocks for all Fenders, bullets, Affin etc 25pound for the block cold rolled steel . Even the tremolo arms look lovely with the faded look. Maybe you know this guy . But for all those people who want to upgrade there Squiers who cant get a smaller block, I would check him out. I was reading some reviews on Google about his work seems very good . Cheers Stu.

  48. Paul Farrell says:

    Just purchased a MIM and I am very pleased . Great sound out of a Fender Mustang II amp. Set up from factory is excellent. I would tell future strat purchasers to buy MIM if they are on s budget.

  49. Filippo says:

    Great article and great tips!
    How about this one as a base for a black strat project.
    Looks like it doesn’t need much to be the perfect axe!

    http://www.thomann.de/it/fender_fsr_std_strat_mn_blk.htm

  50. Don Smith says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I`ve been building a candy apple red Strat and got to the point that I just needed a loaded EMG SPC EXG pickguard and the bridge to complete the project. I know you really like the Callaham bridges, and I had planned on using one on my Strat build, but after becoming aware of a bridge I had never heard of I decided not to get the Callaham bridge. My new bridge is a Babicz Full Contact bridge and it arrived yesterday and looks very impressive. Are you familiar with the Babicz bridge? I read a bunch of very positive reviews, and some of the reviewers had a Babicz bridge on all their guitars and basses. On their website they have a video showing how the bridges full contact saddles work…..I`d be interested in your thoughts on this bridge……here`s a link…..

    http://www.fullcontacthardware.com/

    • Bjorn says:

      Heard good things but I’ve never tried them. Let me know what you think :)

      • Don says:

        Hi Bjorn,
        Just thought I`d finally get back to you about my red Strat build and my impressions of the Babicz bridge I installed on it. First of all, I`m not seeing any noticeable increase in sustain with the guitar unplugged in comparison to my other Strat which is bone stock. When I purchased the bridge I was not concerned with increasing sustain, I just really liked the saddle design, because the saddles are so easy to adjust string height, and they are really comfortable to rest my hand on for palm muting, The cam system of the saddles seems like it would help prevent string breakage. One thing I really disliked was the whammy bar……it was too long, and I didn`t care for the shape at all……it was almost perfectly straight with an upward bend, and then it had another upward bend 65mm from the tip. Instead of using the Babicz whammy bar, I got a Callaham “64” bar and modified it…….I bent it into the shape of a Fender whammy bar and then I added more threads to the bar, and then cut some of the threads off the end. I also modified the bridge by tapping the hole for the whammy bar all the way through the block and installing a short set screw on the backside. This was done because I wanted to use a Fender tremolo spring and without a set screw at the bottom of the hole the spring would just fall through. The spring is the reason I had to cut some of the threads off the whammy bar…..to keep the bar from sticking out too far from the body. Anyway, I haven`t decided yet if I will put a Babicz bridge on my Telecaster or just install the Babicz saddles on the stock bridge plate…….

  51. Tomlinsky says:

    Signal Snowboards has had the Fender Custom Shop create a Stratocaster using cardboard for the guitar’s body and neck. The cardboard Strat was created by layering the cardboard to make a stable structure that could withstand string tension. The layering results in a see-through body that lends the guitar a deceptive look of fragility. The guitar features standard Strat parts. As for its sound—you be the judge.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Oo2H-W7d6A

    http://www.guitarworld.com/fender-made-cardboard-stratocaster-sounds-real-thing-video/25918

  52. Smokewood says:

    The type of wood used to build electric guitars have zero effect on the tone of the instrument. String gauge, string type, string height, pickup type, and the bridge is where tone comes from…

    • Bjorn says:

      I don’t agree. On what do you base that claim? Maple, ash, rosewood, basswood and what have you, all have different qualities soundwise. Obviously, two trees aren’t identical and it also depends on how the wood has been treated, which is also why two seemingly identical guitars, can sound different. My best tip is to be aware of what different wood, lacquer, hardware, pickups and strings does to the sound and have this in mind when you choose a guitar. Ultimately, what matters is that you like the guitar and feel comfortable with how it plays.

      • Kurt says:

        You can find a diffucult to read scientific study (in german, more than 400 pages) in the internet concerning the influence of different types of wood on the sound of electric (!) guitars. one thing is that the type of wood has no measurable influence on the sound of the guitar. another point is that the accurate size of the neck pocket has no influence on the tone or the sustain (the guitar with the biggest gap and one weak screw had the longest sustain). and it seem that there is no hearable influence of the lacquer on the sound (wood does not breath). Most parts with influence are the different kinds of bridges (tele vs strat vs les paul), the pickups, guitar picks, playing style, age of strings and scale length. all other parts did not have any measurable or hearable influence – it is imagination and wishful thinking.

        • Bjorn says:

          OK. I don’t read, or talk, German, so… Anyway, I’m sure you can measure and do all kinds of tests but there is a difference. The reason is that different wood has different density and structure. That will make the sound waves resonate differently between the woods. Same goes with the type of laquer. Nitro, polyester, faded etc all have an impact on the tone. BUT, were talking nuances here and it depends on how picky you are. I’m not saying that you need to buy alder from a specific forrest chopped down during a specific year but just be aware of the differences… as you wood when it comes to different shapes,contours, pickups etc… That’s my two cents anyway…

          • Smokewood says:

            There are tons of experiments on you tube, just start looking. On acoustic guitars you are right because the tone comes from the guitar itself, not an amp that is simply picking up an electromagnetic signal from the pickups.

            I’ve always known that tonewood was a myth on electric guitars. Take the strings, bridge, nut, and pickups out of a pure mahogany guitar and put it in the exact same shaped maple guitar with the same scale length, and you will not be able to tell the difference in the two…

            BTW – I love your site and come here often, it’s a GREAT site.

  53. Matte says:

    Hallo Bjorn,

    I have a 57 Reissue Strat from 1989. In contrast to my other guitar, intensive bending is not possible (string tension). I asked for advice and a merchant told me, that the construction type (fretboard radius) of old Strats like the 57 does not make large bendings possible. I can’t believe just like that, and I ask myself, is it just the adjustment of the neck that is crappy?

    Best regards, Matte

    • Bjorn says:

      Sorry for my very late reply. That’s not true. Obviously, people did bends back in the days too. It’s just a matter of keeping the neck straight (by making sure the truss rod is properly adjusted) and the right height on the strings. Begin with the G string. Set it as low as possible but high enough to be able to bend it without it choking on the fret. Set the other strings accordingly for a nice curve that follows the neck. You might want the G and B string slightly higher than the other strings.

      • crimson says:

        hm – i never had bending problems with the g string. on my guitar it is always the high e string (i have to keep it high). tried it with a very straight neck .006 inch on the 7th fret (with capo on first and pushed down on last fret), or with .008, .012 and even .018 … i have to raise the high e-string to 2.2 mm (17th fret) while g and b work with 1.8 mm.

  54. Gabe says:

    Bjorn, do you think that the custom shop Strat is worth it? A friend is selling his relic version and I wanted to know if it is a good buy

    • Bjorn says:

      I don’t think the retail price on any custom shop instrument is worth it. It’s quite ridiculous. However, that doesn’t mean that these are not great guitars. They are! In any case you should ask yourself if this is a guitar you feel comfortable with and like playing. Doesn’t have much value if you don’t like it :)

  55. Gabriel says:

    Hey Bjorn,
    What do you reckon are David’s settings on the volume and tone knobs on the Black Strat for most songs?
    Cheers from Brazil

    • Bjorn says:

      Seems that he mostly keeps the tone controls full on, most of the time. The volume control is constantly adjusted, depending on what tones he want. Rolling it off a hair, will smooth out any harsh overtones and also allow you to control the amount of gain or distortion in your signal. I often keep the volume control at 9, just to make everything a bit smoother and dynamic. For rhythm stuff, I often roll it down to 7-8, depending on how much gain I’m using.

  56. Alvaro says:

    Any thoughts on G&L Legacy (strat) guitars? Specially the Tribute series. They pack a lot of juice for the price imho.

  57. Huy Tran says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I did a search before posting and notice that you prefer vintage type necks so I assume you like 7.25″ radius?

    I have a 7.25″ on my #1 Strat and it feels great but bending higher up the neck becomes quite a fight sometimes. I don’t really notice it until I use my LP or my MIM Strat. It is going to be a long time yet before I figure out what I like. Whenever I play on a flatter neck it feels nice and smooth and I would think I prefer flatter wider radius’, but then I go back to my #1 Strat and I feel very comfortable and at home.

    Just wondering if you have moved away from 7.25″ or is that still your preferred? Also if you can briefly expand on why you like your preferred radius I would appreciate it. I respect you as a generous person and admire you as a guitar player so I like to pick your brain every chance I get.

    Thank you Bjorn.

    P.S. You are killing me with your pedal reviews. It seems like you can make a potato sound good and then I’d want to buy it.

    • Bjorn says:

      Hi! I do prefer those vintage style 7.25″s. I think there is a big misconception out there regarding the radius and the ability to bend strings. String height guides provided by Fender and others are only meant as a starting point. You should always adjust the height to match your technique and preference. Guitarists have used 7.25s for decades and bending as never been as issue. Make sure that the neck is straight. You can also allow a tiny hair bend to avoid fret buzz. But only a hair. Use the recommended string height and see how that feels. Make sure that the bridge is set how you want it. Bend the strings and note which one that chokes when you bend high. Raise those just enough to get the clearing you need. That would usually be the G and B string. After you’ve adjusted, make sure that you have a nice bow when you look at your strings from behind. They should follow the curvage of the neck. Hope this helped :)

  58. Hello, I’m from Brazil and I’m planning to buy a Fender Mexican Standard. But as I see, you suggest to replace the tremolo system. What is the best tremolo system that you suggest??

    Andre Falco

  59. Eric says:

    Random questions – I’m reading Phil Taylor’s book and he has so many awesome pictures of the black strat. Some of the pics are so good they look like they are out of a Musicians Friend catalog. For instance the strat on pg 97 3rd edition with rosewood neck. Q – did he actually take these pics in ’74 or did he put the rosewood neck back on the black strat simply for the book pics? Pages 114 and 115 have amazing photos too that must be really old or else they are recreated for the book. Maybe its because he was the guitar tech and he needed to document everything at that time.

    Second Q – I love the ’63 rosewood neck! Any idea what the sunburst strat/rosewood neck is up to now?

    • Bjorn says:

      All of those shots are new but I assume they either used a random Strat or one of the Black Strat replicas. You can see that the shots of the mid 70s version has no scratches, while the shots of the newer ones do, so I’m guessing they used different guitars or bodies to illustrate the timeline. The neck is the genuine rosewood.

  60. Roger Sartori says:

    About the Gotoh vintage bridge for strats? Is it good? Have you tried it? This model, GE101-TS has a steel block and the same measures that the new Fender CS 50s, which is 11.3 mm between strings.

  61. Roger Sartori says:

    Fender Classic Series ’50s made from 2008 has bridge spacing of 2 3/16″, but Callaham Vintage S bridge is 2 7/32″ mounting spacing with 2 1/16″ string spacing. Would I expect troubles on installing it?

  62. Matthias says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I have to do a refret on my Fender strat and I’m considering putting stainless steel frets, mostly for durability.
    I’d be curious to read your opinion on stainless steel frets in terms of feel, tone, etc. Would you consider putting stainless frets on your guitars?
    Thanks a lot.
    Take care,
    Matthias

    • Bjorn says:

      Hi Matthias! Terribly sorry for my late reply. I don’t have that much experience with different types of fret materials. A quick google search shows that there are different opinions. Some claim that the difference is huge, while others claim there is none. I guess you can say that about everything you put into a guitar. What’s important is that the job is done right. I’d also look into different gauges. Bigger frets often makes the guitar sound better.

  63. The more I read this website, the more I feel you don’t really know what you’re talking about and are just going by popular notion.
    For example:
    1. The Squier CV pickups are rather excellent. No need to change them out.
    2. The bridge assembly on all these models are fine. On some (Squiers and MIM) you may want to change out the alloy block for a full size zinc one but that’s it. Also, tuning instability can be fixed with a simple mod like a properly cut nut, a good setup and/or lubricating the saddles. There’s no need to throw money down the drain by buying a ridiculously overpriced Callaham bridge,

    • Bjorn says:

      Sorry you feel that way. If you’ve read my site, as you say you’ve done, you would have noticed that all my recommendations are purely based on my own experience and very subjective opinions – as I read your comment and opinion. I don’t say that you have to do anything and in fact, I’m one of the few out there who actually warmly recommend Squier and Mexico Fenders over the overpriced US models. You don’t need to upgrade the parts, they work just fine but if you do, you’d have an excellent guitar that doesn’t stand back for the ten times more expensive US counterpart.

  64. Roger Sartori says:

    Hi, Bjorn. I’m considering having a spare and cheap guitar and the STERLING SILO 30 model by MUSIC MAN is getting my attention. But it has two single coils and a humbucker pickups and I would like to replace them. In this case, would you know what model of humbucker it is an option to have the black strat tone? Thanks.

  65. Greg says:

    What is a great hard rock-metal pickup for a basswood LTD

  66. Dimitris says:

    I am to make a vintage 50’s style Strat, with A5 pickups. My luthier suggested that we try a 1-piece body of khaya mahogany. We can’t find find alder planks in Greece and this mahogany plank he has, he says it’s very good. It will have a maple neck and DAllen 69 pickups.
    Have you had any experience with mahogany Strats? How does it sound compared to Alder?

    • Bjorn says:

      Mahogany is often used for LPs. It has a warm character, with an open tone. Alder, which is often used for Strats, has a tighter tone, with a brighter top end. I’ve never played a mahogany Strat so I can’t really tell. Either way, although different wood makes a difference, how much you notice this difference depends on the rest of the guitar, laquer, hardware etc and of course the amp.

  67. Jon Matthews says:

    Hi Bjorn.

    Your website and videos are fantastic. I’ve got lots of useful and helpful information from your excellent research. However I don’t understand how the materials of a fretboard can make a difference to a guitars tone. When you fret a note you are simply applying a metal string to a metal fret. I have loads of different guitars and the only difference I can detect is the feel of the instrument and the sound of the pickups. Can you clarify please?

    • Bjorn says:

      Thanks for your kind words, Jon! There are different opinions about this. Some claim that it doesn’t matter while others says it matters a great deal. The string isn’t just touching a fret but it also resonates on the wood and throughout the neck and body. My experience is that there is a difference but the tone of a guitar depends on many things and relating to the neck, the radius, fretboard, frets, lacquer all makes a difference. The general consensus is that rosewood, ebony and other darker wood has a softer and warmer character, while maple and other brighter wood has a more punchy and snappy tone. I think the most important thing is that you get a neck that feels comfortable.

  68. It is possible to tell if your model has a wired pre-wired pick-guard? I’d like to change my pick-guard to the MOP white to go with that sweet burgundy mist color. But not if the pickups are wired to it. The sound is perfect as it is–the single coils get an authentic “Wind Cries Mary” (Hendrix) sound I don’t want to lose by wiring in something that risks taking away that magic. The pick-guard seems difficult to remove just to have a gander under the hood, So any info that saves me this potential MISTAKE would be greatly appreciated.

    FYI, I replaced the saddles with the Graph Tech string savers, It’s a spanking new deluxe road house model (HSS) MIM and the mother of pearl would give it an extra one-of-a-kind panache, Any word? Thanks in advance. Jim

  69. KEITH says:

    I think I emailed you a picture, but you’re right about P-90 loaded Gibsons working well for DG’s tones. I picked up a new, lost in the warehouse 2011 50th anniversary Pete Townshend signature SG Special, a dead on reissue of a ’61 SG Special, in the Rare polaris/arctic white. It has become my go to guitar for solos, and crunchy rythyms. The stock P-90s are as good as the ones I had in my ’63 SG Special that was exactly the same guitar, including the mods Pete did to his SGs, I swapped out the tremolo, for a lightening bar wrap around tail piece, and traded the stock tuners for Grover kidney shaped tuners. It wasn’t until 28 years after the ’63 was stolen that I found that I had instnctively done the same exact mods he had done to his, even used the same exact bridge, and tuners because it felt right. I had to have the guitar the second I saw it, and when I got home, I found that the 2012 versions, which were still being sold as 50th anninversary, were going for $1400-$1500 used on eBay. I got a low serial number 2011brand new, for $1000+ tax!! It’s not the ’63, but other than the paint not having yellowed yet it plays, looks, and SOUNDS exactly Like my stolen ’63. For once I had incredibly good luck with a guitar, and love it almost as much as Cymbaline,( my handcrafted ’68-69 Strat, built by Tom Rodriguez!). I got off point a bit, but if you want a Gilmourish Guitar, that will get you into Gibson territory as well, Any P-90 loaded Gibson will do the trick, and for a more vintage P-90, Lundy Fralin makes his P-90s on original Gibson nachines, and is IMO the greatest pickup builder in the world, and I’ve played them all!!!

    Peace, Love to all, KEITH

    • KEITH says:

      That’s Lindy Fralin, not Lundy, stupid phone. I fond it odd that since DGs playing is based on the blues, and Fralin’s pickups are world renowned, especially amongst blues players, and he is sales wise likely the biggest “boutique” pickup builder in the world, that I’ve not seen one person say they’ve tried them. Go in any blues, or musician’s forum like The gear page, the Telecaster forum, Fender forum, and you will find pages dedicated to his pickups. Not complaining, just find it odd, and wouldn’t use anything else that I’ve played, and really think that for those looking for authentic Vintage Gilmour tones, you’re missing the best vintage Fender style pickups available. He will even make the low output pickups from ’71 Fender Bullet truss Strats, which people are a luttle confused about. Gilmour and Blackmore lobed them, and Blackmore had quite a few ’71s, but they’re some of the lowest output pups to grace a stock strat, most coming in around 5.2-5.3k, where as most Strat pups from the ’60s, and 70s were about 5.8k. Just a but of trivia. If you try them, and aren’t satisfied with the output, he will rewind them, and if you don’t like them,( YOU WILL!), their resale value is almost what you’d pay new, they don’t lose value until they get beat up. Just sayin’

      Keith

  70. TRMBRS says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I’m getting some buzzing problem on a new US standard strat on the 1st and 2nd strings(open strings or fretted).The buzzing sounds like coming from the bridge,it happens occasionally but if I move the positions of this two strings on the saddles left or right a little bit it disappears(then all sounds good),and the buzz won’t appear again if I move them back to their former buzzing positions .But…a few hours or one night later it comes back…
    Any idea to fix it?Thanks in advance!

    • Bjorn says:

      The springs are sitting loose on the saddles. You can try to wiggle them a bit when it appears or unscrew the saddles and try to assemble it again. Or, you can drop the springs.

      • TRMBRS says:

        Thx for the input,Bjorn. I had adjusted intonation,truss rod,string height…all the stuff,and seems fixed problem above.But I still got slight fret buzz at treble side with very high string actions(1st&2nd string 2.3MM,3rd string over 2.5MM),is that common for a American std or still need to be adjusted?

        • Bjorn says:

          I’m sure you can tweak the intonation, string height etc a bit more to really eliminate it but there could be a number of reasons why you experience fret buzz. Could be a fret or two that’s a bit higher that the others (that happen). Could be the way you pick the strings. Could be the way the bridge is set up. Could be the slots in the nut… If it’s not a huge problem then you’re probably better off just accepting it.

  71. Daniel says:

    Hi Bjorn

    Congratulations for your website – I just bought a Fender Stratocaster Mexican Standard, and I actually think the vibrato is poor – by what model and what brand is it possible to replace it.

    Does it make sense to replace existing mechanical by mechanical self-blocking

    Congratulations again, sorry for my english

    Daniel

  72. Matt says:

    If you had to rebuild your DG rig from the ground up with a $3000 dollar budget what would choose?

    • Bjorn says:

      Oh… you know, I’m very happy with the setup I have now, which you can read more about on bjornriis.com. I rarely play Gilmour stuff anymore but I have my Strats, the Reeves Custom 50 with the Sound City cab and enough pedals to cover most of David’s tones. I’ve always been more into trying to get the tone I want with the gear I have at any given time so it doesn’t really matter to me whether I have a duplicate of David’s rig or not. Also, budget gear has come a long way the last decade or so and with a bit of tweaking and perhaps an upgrade or two you can get just a close to the tones you want as with custom shop and more expensive gear. Boring answer perhaps but all you need to cover David’s tones is a nice guitar, a decent amp and three pedals: overdrive, distortion and delay. That’s the bare essentials. What’s more important is that you make that your own and practice. A lot.

      • Matt says:

        Cool. I was hoping for a magic pedal. :) Turn the good looks knob to 2:00, the skill knob all the way up and the smooth knob all the way up too. You’re right about how little you need. Would you add a flanger or chorus in there as well?

        Matt

  73. Olivier says:

    Hey Bjorn

    another afficionado here! Thankt for the great articles.
    After years of dabbling, I’ve finally decided to pick up the guitar for good.
    In order to not ruin myself, got myself a squier affinity strat, and yeah, it’s not baaad, but it’s not THAT.

    So looking at getting an american standard, or a MIM.
    How difficult would you rate the pickup/electronics change? Worth getting someone to do it for me, or can a total novice do it and get a good result

    Keep on rockin
    Ol

  74. Greg says:

    Brilliant article, I have only been playing guitar for 12 months but at 51 my sole reason for learning to play has all been about the Gilmour tone. I have spent a small fortune on high end guitars and have made all the mistake Bjorn has warned off. After numerous strats, custom hand made guitars and PRS I now have a Schecter Custom, brilliant guitar and the best I have owned. The point made by so many is not to obsess about the pedals, amps, guitar it is all in the fingers, it seems to me that whatever DG play his tone is brilliant and unique, this is confirmed by his guitar tech. Spend thousands like I have and it will bring you no closer to that incredible tone that we all dream of. It is all down to practising the licks and emulating his techniques and style. Others far more experienced than I may have a different view but I am sure what I have said is not to far off the mark.

    • Bjorn says:

      Hi Greg! Very good point you’re making and I think most experienced guitarists would agree. There’s no wrong in having elaborate setups but what it always comes down to how you play the guitar. It’s a cliché but it is your fingers and your mind that creates your tone and the pedals and effects are just tool for adding that little extra.

  75. TRMBRS says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I’m considering buying a strat,should I just go for American standard with SSS pickups(for vintage fender feelings) or buy an American standerd strat HSS with humbucking bridge pickup for versatility?Any advice u give would be helpful!Thanks in advance!

    • Bjorn says:

      Depends on what tones you want. If you want classic Strat, then go for the SSS and if you need a bit more balls, replace the stock bridge pickup with a Duncan SSL5. If you want a more modern sounding guitar, especially suited for rock and harder sounding music, then the HSS might be an option.

  76. Felipe says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    What are your thoughts on the MIM Deluxe Players Strat? It has vintage noiseless pickups and looks amazing. I tried one out and liked it very much. Although I’m not sure if it can come close to those Gilmour tones.

    Thanks!

    • Bjorn says:

      Very nice guitars. Not my personal favourites but there’s no reason why you shouldn’t get great Gilmour tones with it. It’s more down to what kind of guitar you prefer and feel comfortable with and what pedals and amps you combine it with.

  77. Hamish says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I am thinking of putting together a new guitar. I am probably going to order a custom body and neck from Warmoth. The body will be of a Tele Thinline – so with the f hole. I haven’t yet decided which pickups I will put in, but I am torn between CS69s with the SSL5 bridge setup, and the Burns Trisonic set of Brian May (I know, two completely different sounds). Therefore, a universal or ‘swimming pool’ pickup route would be a good option, as I can change pickups to whatever I want. Also there will have to be a great deal of wiring in the guitar, and so that will need a bit of space also.
    My question to you is: is it sensible to get a swimming pool pickup route, baring in mind that the body will already have an f hole, and a large route for the wiring. Would this take out too much wood from the body? Would this make the guitar dead, with no sustain?

    Thanks, Hamish

    [I’m not the right person to ask. It shouldn’t be a problem. I guess the tone and sustain of the guitar also depends on the quality and density of the wood but if anything I would imagine that the tone gets a bit more open. Ask Warmoth. They’re the experts :) One thing though… be careful placing a SSL5 and other high output pickups in a Tele or semi-hollow body. You may experience a lot of feedback and microphonics. – Bjorn]

  78. Mathias says:

    Hi Björn,

    I have tried to search for Eric Johnson on your site. I wanted to find any comments on the EJ Sign. strat but I did’nt succeded.
    Some placeses I’ve read that this is the best strat you can get to the price, but what is your opinion?

    Thanks for all your knowledge and time you share with us.
    Br. Mathias

    [It has some interesting features. Both the maple and rosewood are based on ’57 specs. It’s a fine guitar no doubt but it depends on whether you like playing it or not. The V-shaped neck can feel like a bat if you’re not used to it. The pickups, as far as I can remember, are based on the low-output 50s and 60s tones, with a tad more mids. – Bjorn]

  79. Matt says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I have a Fender FSR Stratocaster that is absolutely amazing. Mine looks like Gilmour’s “Black Strat”, the sound is close to his original and there’s rumors that it could be made from the extra pieces of the special Gilmour custom shop price. If you ever find one, definitely try it out. It can cover a lot of sonic ground. What would you say is the best amp for replicating Gilmour’s tones from the Wall and Dark Side of the Moon under a $1000 budget? Thanks for the awesome website!

    [Yeah, those FSRs are great guitars. There are many great sounding amps under $1000 and I’ve listed a bunch in the Buyer’s Gear Guide. Depends on how you’ll be using the amp. The Laney Lionheart, H&K Tubemeister, Hiwatt Tube Series… you might also want to check out EBay or your local classifieds for used amps. It’s still possible to get an old Sound City or Fender under $1000. – Bjorn]

  80. John Kouk says:

    Hi Björn,
    I have a fender standard MIM stratocaster. I love the tone and the feel of it but I want to change the tuners. I’d like some vintage style staggerd ones but I want some help to choose which ones to buy. What do you think it would be a great choice? Thanks in advance!

    [Check out Callaham. I buy all my hardware there and couldn’t be happier. – Bjorn]

  81. Kevin says:

    Hey Bjorn, good article. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on a 1982 reissue of a 1962 strat (one w/ the original parts in it). Is it worth it to spend $3500 for that or is a MIM strat a way better value? Of course, I know the answer is partly “it depends on how much you like it” but I’m wondering what your opinion is. I’m a fan of John Frusciante as well so that’s why I was looking at ’62 reissues rather than ’57s.

    [Very sorry for my late reply, Kevin. I’m no expert on the Fender history. David’s red Strat is a 1983. There was a transition period in the early 80s and I’m not sure if 1982 are considered good or not. I’d check up on that before buying. A MIM or CIJ might be just as good but this is a vintage guitar so you need to add that value too :) – Bjorn]

  82. Marcello C says:

    Hi Bjørn,
    thought about sharing with you and Klaus my experience with my black strat from MJT Custom Aged Guitars. It is light relic nitro, has two Fender CS-69 pick-ups in the neck and middle position and a Seymour Duncan SSL-5 in the bridge position. I decided for a more modern specs for the neck with respect to the Gilmour Model, i.e. modern C-profile, 22 medium-jumbo frets, 9/5″ fingerboard radius. This is because I like it better for my playing. The price? 1734 US dollars, all inclusive of shipping, norwegian custom, and electronic setup and shielding at 4Sound. How does it sound? Great. It is very resonant when played acoustic (you can feel it in the neck), with that typical “snappy” strat tone. When plugged, it sounds like you imagine a strat should sound. I had tried three Gilmour-strat before (in Norway, Italy and USA) and IMHO my strat sounds better. Must confess I was a little nervous about this project because I always like to try a guitar before buying it. But then I thought what the heck, this can be my X-mas present this year. So the morale of all of this is that you do not need to spend all that outrageous amount of money that Fender asks for the Gilmour Black Strat.
    Cheers,
    Marcello

    [Thanks for sharing! -Bjorn]

  83. Klaus says:

    Hi Björn,
    Thanks for this great site, I’ve been following it for a while.
    I used to be a big strat fan, (had a ’55, sadly sold it in the early eighties for a song) then got out of playing for many years. Started back up about 10 years ago and now have 15! But not a single strat, except for a Bunker guitar (made in the US by Dave Bunker). very nice, but they have that sort of strange ‘floating neck’ set up, where the truss rod is attached to the head stock, and this assembly then slides into the neck. Still a great guitar but not a ‘real strat’. My question is this: I’m on the verge to buy a custom shop ‘gilmour strat’ in the relic version. Found a 2014 model, brand new, for a ‘reasonable’ price. To get that gilmourish sounds would you recommend one of these or should I assemble one from various parts. (I have a great luthier in my town that could put it all together and tweak it to perfection). I really don’t mind if the custom shop guitar is more expensive, if the result is more of what I’m looking for. I guess to put it in a nutshell, is the custom shop relic worth the money? The one I’m looking at is $3,600. Thanks so much, I appreciate your comments.
    Klaus

    [Hi Klaus! To be very honest. No, I don’t think the guitar is worth it. It’s a fine guitar but the price is too high. They did a wonderful with the relic look and the specs are very close to what I prefer but it’s just another guitar and you pay a lot for the Custom Shop sticker and the fact that it is a relic/signature model. I’d never buy a guitar based on it being a relic or a signature but rather based on what specs I want and whether or not it feels right playing it. Is the neck comfortable? Is the body contour OK? The pickups and electronics can easily be replaced so I usually don’t pay much attention to that. You can easily buy a ’57 US or similar and mod it to your specs or, order custom parts from Warmoth and get an awesome guitar for a fraction of the price :) – Bjorn]

    • Gerard Smulevich says:

      Bjorn, Gerry in LA here. I’m bumping tgis thread because i have just completed a related expirament: How to get a CS quality tone for black Strat Build without paying a premium for it. First experiment was to convert a black Roadworn 50s MIM with a callaham block, cs69/cs69/ss5, custom pickguard with correct hidden switch and rounded edges, etc. Sounded great through my Lionheart L20H on a 212 cab loaded with Fane Classics 50s. But not great enough!! So doing some research i concluded that the best quality/sounding production strat body that was based on a vintage strat was the Eric Johnson signature model. After several months searching I scored a 2006 Black Eric Johnson strat body (with a few dings and scratches) for $330 US (on Reverb.com). I had a 1992 AVRI maple neck that was refretted by Eric Chaz (Luthier located at Sound City Studios) with 6105 wire, narrow tall/.055). Jusr switched the entire electronics over incl a KGC brass Megablock trem.

      I will say this: It sounds as good to my ears and plays better than the CS DG signature which ive demo’d twice at Guitar Center Hollywood.

      I haven’t seen any comnents or references on your site on the EJ strat as a basis for a build, but there are shops selling them as parts separately because of their value as individual components. Bodys can be had new for under $500 . Just my experience trying alternative sources for the black strat hunt :)

  84. Huy Tran says:

    Hi Fabian,

    Just my thoughts. Even cheap pedals add up very quickly. I honestly think you can go with a rat variant and a delay pedal for now. I started on a Ibanez DE-7 which is digital but has a echo simulation option that sounds good. It is also under $70. My first distortion pedal was a Boss ds-2 and then a super crunch box 2 which can do plexi to jcm 800 to really compressed and distortion marshall sounds. The boss ds-1 or ds-2 are actually pretty good pedals.

    This is only if you need pedals but I’d stop there. A tuner pedal is handy but you can also get a cheap $10 tuner for now. I’d say your main main priority is your amp and pickups. They are your canvas and your brushes and form the basis of the tone in your head. If you are happy with your pickups then that is fine but definitely plan for a new amp. Even if it is long term. If you are planning to buy good muffs and delays later on, you’d want a tube amp.

    Again just my thoughts. Everyone’s situation is different.

  85. Fabian says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    it’s me again – Fabian – and I want to answer your question. I am interested in the tones of “The Wall,”A Saucerful of Secrets” and “Animals”. I heard that the setup of “ASOS” is about the same as the one of “Meddle”. Is that true? I hope you have some suggestions for a beginner. :)

    Great website by the way and in forward: thank you for the help!

    [Sorry for my late reply. You’ll find detailed run-downs of Gilmour’s setups on all the albums here. See this feature as well for some amp set up tips. Based on your setup I’d go for something versatile to be able to cover as ground as possible and get tones close to Gilmour. A tuner should definitely be your first purchase. I think that with a distortion, overdrive and delay you should be pretty much set for the tones you want and you can build it from there when you get more funds. The ProCo Rat and Ibanez TS9 are easy to find and great sounding distortions and overdrives. See the Buyer’s Gear Guide Overdrive and Distortion for similar sounding pedals. You could go for pretty much any delay. The TC Flashback is extremely versatile and great sounding. See the Buyer’s Gear Guide Delay for more tips. – Bjorn]

  86. Fabian says:

    Hey Bjorn,

    I bought a Squier VM 70s Strat – like the black Strat and I am very happy with it although I guess it still can be upgraded to sound a lot better. I only got a Marshall MG15CFR and I would like to know what pedals I just start buying. I looked trough your side but I guess the range is a little bit overwhelming. Should I start with a tuner and a big muff? Or do you have a better idea?

    Greetings and Merry Christmas!
    Fabian

    [Depends on what tones you want. Could you try to be a bit more specific? – Bjorn]

  87. Kris says:

    Hey Bjorn,

    Finding myself spending lots of time on your site. Really a great job you do here. Very helpful for us gilmour fans! I had a question regarding my new strat. I recently purchased a fender MIM Jimmie Vaughn. I’ve replaced the pickups with a SSL5 in the bridge and fender custom shop 69’s in the middle and neck and I am debating whether or not I need to replace the tremelo. The guitar comes stock with vintage US hardware including a tremelo. I was wondering if you thought its worth getting the callaham vintage S tremelo with the gilmour bar or just getting the shortened gilmour bar to use with the existing tremolo I have. Thanks!

    [Hi Kris! Thanks for your kind words! The quality of the term system is more than good enough so you don’t need to change it. However, the Callaham has some features that the Fender doesn’t have, like less friction on the strings and a bigger block, which enhances the tuning stability and sustain. – Bjorn]

  88. Debargho says:

    Hey Bjorn, just thought would share some info about Gilmour’s 1983 candy apple red Strat. In 1982 Fender brought in Dan Smith, who introduced the ‘re-issue series’ and all re-issues made in the year 1982/1983 in the Fullerton plant, has now become quite collectible and is popularly known as ‘Dan Smith era Strats’ or simply ‘Dan Smith re-issue Strats’.
    You may want to include this fact under the Red Strat information on the site.
    Here’s a link to some further information:
    http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/15094-dan-smith-stratocaster-love-thread.html

    [Thanks for the info :) – Bjorn]

  89. Rick says:

    Hi, I have a 1986 Squier Bullet MIJ has a Tele maple neck but it’s body is a laminate plywood and I would like to get a replacement made in Alder, I have looked but can find one in Alder is there a vendor the make bodies from the original or know of someone who does make one for my guitar?

    [Check out Warmoth.Com. Highly recommended for high quality replacement parts. – Bjorn]

  90. dimitri says:

    is the tremolo system on the mim fender classic 50’s that so bda and unstable? if it is,is it worth to get a new tokai tst50 strat ( rather than a mexican) or should i try to get a mij strat?
    my plan is after i get any of these just to replace the bridge pickup wit the seymour duncan ssl5 .
    other plan is to get the mim and replace the tremolo system with a new nice fender vintage style one :)

    [The MIM Classic guitars are very good and the term system will do the job. Just be sure to string up properly and adjust the term system to taste. That should keep in stable. The biggest upgrade you can do is in terms of tone. Systems like the Callaham Vintage bridge has a thicker block, which creates a fuller tone and more sustain. It also leaves less tension and friction on the strings, which also results in more sustain and better tuning. But again, the stock Classic will do. – Bjorn]

  91. T.Quay Williams says:

    Bjorn,

    I’m building a Strat from Warmoth parts and they have a chambered maple strat body. Do you think Maple would sound too bright for David’s tones?

    [Never tried a maple body, I think, so I can’t really tell. – Bjorn]

  92. George says:

    Hi Bjorn im looking to get a new guitar and ive been looking at the Fender classic series which you have put on here but what about the classic player? the guitar pretty much the same price wise and the classic player’s seem to have better pickups and hardware. What do you think?
    -George

    [The Classic Player is sort of a mix between the Classic Series and the Standard, with a bit of both worlds. Personally I like the Classic better but the CP are very nice guitars too. Try both and compare them :) – Bjorn]

  93. Tommy Bruner says:

    I have two Clapton Strats, both fitted with the EMG DG-20 electronics. One is a black 2013, the other a pewter 2006. The trems are unblocked on both. The black one seems a bit fuller-sounding. I don’t know whether this is because of the different finish, or maybe that the frets are less worn. But they both sound fantastic, a much more authentic Strat sound than a Clapton’s factory electronics. (And yes, the black one has a black pick guard I got from Warmoth.) 57-reissue necks aren’t very practical for me. They play great, but I live in the Midwestern United States (Iowa) and the humidity here changes day-to-day and sometimes hour-to-hour. So I have to have a neck I don’t have to remove to adjust. I’ve found the Clapton’s to be a very nice “compromise”, if you will.

    [Thanks for sharing! – Bjorn]

  94. Shubham says:

    I’m going to buy a Fender classic series 70s strat does it a good guitar or not or it have the drawbacks which were on the original 70s strats! Thanks.

    [I’d say that it’s a very nice guitar. It is a budget model, which means that the pickups and hardware isn’t as good as a top level US model, but this can easily be upgraded and you’ll still be well within a reasonable price. The Classic Series are very well made and sounds great. As with all guitars, I recommend that you try it first and if possible, try several guitars and choose the one that sounds the best. – Bjorn]

  95. Brian Kjar says:

    I would disagree that the Fender Squire Classic Vibe is a “beginners” Guitar. I recently purchased at the Classic vibe 60th anniversary 50s model and was blown away by the quality of this instrument, its simply the best strat I have ever owned, sounds, looks and plays great, stays in tune better than any strat I have ever owned and I have owned several Strats including a high end/outrageously priced US made deluxe (that was crap) and a Japanese made 60s re-issue ( good guitar) . You’re equating Higher price to higher quality this isn’t always the case when it comer to guitars, Asian made are often better than US made.

    [I’ll be the first one to agree with that, owning several Japanese Fenders my self. The Squier guitars are definitely great instruments, which is why I’ve recommended them in the Buyer’s Gear Guide and throughout this site. What I meant was that they will sound and feel even better with better pickups and perhaps better hardware. That’s my experience with them anyway. In any case it depends on what you’re looking for. Many working guitarists use both Squier and Epiphone and it’s also a matter of finding an instrument that fits your style rather than being too focused on what it says on the headstock :) – Bjorn]

  96. jim says:

    Hey Bjorn
    Terrific website and great reviews thanks a lot !
    I wanted to ask you if you have any idea concerning the David Gilmour custom shop strat 2013 series , if it’s done as well as the 500 starts created in 2008 ? (it’s probably a dumb question). But I might have the chance to get my hands on a 2013 NOS start for a very good price.
    Kind Regards
    jim

    [Hi Jim! I haven’t tried them but I would imagine they are. Fender Custom Shop have a very high standard :) – Bjorn]

  97. Cameron says:

    Just got a American Standard Fender strat with maple neck, definitely the way to go! :) Thanks so much!!

  98. Ben says:

    Hi Bjorn just wondering what your general opinion the different periods of Japanese strats is. Is it true that cij strats made around 2000 are better than mij strats made around mid 80’s? Which would get closer to a gilmourish tone?

    Kind regards

    [I’m definitely not an expert on Japanese made Fenders. From what I’ve read the early 80s models (MIJ) are considered very good and so are the mid 90s ones (MIJ/CIJ). There have been some series that have been assembled from low quality wood and the body consists of several pieces etc but the current quality is very good. Problem now though is that there are so many different models and many that are special runs made for certain dealers etc. They use third party parts and assemble necks and bodies from different periods. I guess the only way to be really sure is to make sure you always buy from a trusted dealer and ask for accurate production date and pictures of the neck and body heel to tell what parts they are. – Bjorn]

  99. Angus says:

    Sorry for all the questions Bjorn but I have an opportunity to get either a 1962 reissue mij strat or a 1957 reissue cij strat but I don’t know which one to get? The 1957 has a maple neck while the 1962 has rosewood, and the 57 has an alder body whereas I’m not sure what the 62 has. They both seem like great guitars. Any info and your opinion on the two would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks from Australia!

    [The neck and body contours are different so they feel different when playing. There’s also a difference between maple and rosewood necks. They’re both great guitars so it depends on what specs you prefer. The pickups can always be replaced later on. – Bjorn]

  100. Angus says:

    Hi Bjorn! I’m I’ve been looking around for a strat for a while now and I’m afraid I don’t have enough money to buy a American one. Would a Mexican classic series strat sound fairly close to an American one assuming I’m going to replace the pickups and tremolo block? Also which would you recommend out of the classic series 50’s or 60’s strat?

    Your help would be greatly appreciated, I’m a huge fan of this website!

    [You probably won’t hear any difference between an American og Mexican or any other brand or country of production. Although wood, laquer and hardware do make a significant difference, what’s important for both the tone and your playing is that you like the guitar. Given that it’s of a decent quality you can make any guitar sound great, if you feel comfortable playing it and know a bit about how to get the tones you want. Replacing pickups is a good idea even it’s a US model because pickups is a bit like a pedal. It’s not given that you like what’s featured on the guitar. The Mexican made Classic Series is very good and regardless of whether you’re buing Mexican or US I recommend that you try a few guitars and compare them. No instrument is identical so trying different ones will make it easier to make up your mind and find the one that really sits in your hands and fit your playing. – Bjorn]

  101. Dave Talkin says:

    I have posted in the Big Muff section about my recent Buffalo Patriot acquisition and thought I might describe my ’57 Reissue Stratocaster here.
    I ordered her towards the end of 1983 and got the custom color black.
    Mostly to replicate Clapton’s Blackie at the time, as I locked down the trem and didn’t use the bar.
    This has been the guitar I have owned the longest time, 31 years and it is one of the lightest best playing acoustically Strats I have ever played and I have played a huge amount of them.
    The Stratocaster was my first guitar back in 1967 when I lived in London my cousins in new York sent me a 1965 Transition logoed Stratocaster and my life was never the same afterwards.
    I sold her in 1979 along with all my gear to buy a new Ford Capri 3.0S, which was a great car and very fast. European readers will know this 1980 model.
    So I had no guitar until 1983 when back in North Virginia I ordered one of these newly released ’57 reissues made in the old Fullerton plant, they only made them through 1984 and production shifted to Corona from 1985 onwards.
    These guitars have grown to be legendary with good reason. Sure the ’57 and ’62 reissues had the same neck profile, the twelfth fret dots were too close together but these guitars had real hanbuilt magic to them.
    At this time Jeff Beck bought a few as did Gary Moore and of course David Gilmour bought 4-5 ’57 reissues and one rosewood board ’62 I believe.
    So there were some serious players using these guitars back then!
    Here are some shots:
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000019.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000064.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000071.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000076.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000102.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000112.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000057-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000010-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/00000011-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010001-2.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010002-2.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010003-2.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010004-2.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010005-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010006-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010007-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010008-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010009-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010011-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010012-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/P1010013-1.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MyPictures0005.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MyPictures0006.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MyPictures0007.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MyPictures0008.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MyPictures0010.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MetroCab008_zpsf26afdf0.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/MetroCab010_zps3d66da87.jpg
    Gary Moore with a ’57 reissue 1984:
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/T2eC16JyUE9s6NEHMMBRn9engOg60_58_zps7c004013.jpg
    http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/davida54/KGrHqEOKnIE6u64wkhVBSVL5uL160_12_zpsbe367916.jpg
    Thanks
    Dave

    [Awesome stuff, Dave! Thanks for sharing! – Bjorn]

  102. Alexis says:

    Hi everybody!

    I’m here for a little review of the Squier Vintage Modified 70’s Stratocaster (black model, a bit similar to the Black Strat) that I bought, as I’ve seen that some persons are considering this guitar for a cheap Black Strat replica project (that’s also my case :) ).

    The guitar arrived in quite good condition, just the 2nd string was loosen and a bit bended/marked. After a first tuning, I played for about 10 minutes (hand vibratos and bends to torment a bit my new axe), retuned the guitar and it was ok, I didn’t had to retune it for a while despite the vintage style tuners. Other elements of the guitar are quite well setted.

    I don’t know why, but the bridge saddles are engraved with the “Fender” name, so I suppose that they actually are Fender stock parts (and in extension, maybe it’s the case for the whole bridge…). This is a bit strange, in comparison with the price and the Squier brand… In every case, the vibrato bridge is quite useless because it doesn’t have a large range and is hard IMO. So I consider to soon replace it with a Callaham bridge, I have to measure the dimensions to be sure that all is ok for the upgrade.

    Woods are of good quality, the neck is well finished and there’s no problem with frets edges. I’m a lucky man, as my model came with a figured maple headstock which is absolutely beautiful under the gloss finish (I bought my guitar on the web, so I couldn’t see it in advance). The guitar is quite light thanks to the basswood body. Some finishes could be better, there are some glue traces on the fingerboard (not really difficult to clean), and a little lack of black paint under the body lacquer (only 4 mm long, on the bottom), and the pickguard have some bumps. On the whole, the guitar is a good deal for a replica project.

    Now the electronics. The pickups (three Duncan Designed SC 101) are interesting and similar to standard pickups on a Strat, except for the bridge pickup. For me, it sounds really bright and flapping, more than the 50’s Classic Vibe one, almost like a Telecaster bridge pickup IMO. Surprising, but not unplayable. By using the middle and bridge pickups together, you can obtain more classical bridge strat tones. Tone potentiometers are really progressives, but it’s less true for the volume pot, which is more efficient between 5 and 10. The 5 way switch is ok.

    I changed the electronics for a David Allen loaded pickguard with the Echoes set, so the guitar is now hyper versatile! Note that it may still sawdust under the loaded pickguard (and in the truss rod).

    I hope my comment will be helpful for those who, like me, can’t try the guitar before buying it (mainly on the web). Again, I think this guitar is a good choice for upgrade and replica projects with a tight budget, and have to be considered as well as the Classic Vibe 50’s series (especially as long as there is no CV 50’s Strat in black finish).

    Alexis

    [Thanks for sharing, Alexis! – Bjorn]

  103. T.Quay says:

    Bjorn,

    Hi I’ve followed your site a long time now and I would like to make my own black strat. You often recommend Warmoth replacement necks but the bodies are also great. However, I’m not sure about their chambered bodies. I imagine David always uses a solid alder but Warmoth claims theirs chambered bodies are lighter with no disadvantages in tone. You probably haven’t tried one but what do you predict? Also the standard radius on the Warmoth necks is a compound 10 6 and I was wondering about trying the more standard Fender 9 5. Any comments on neck radius?
    Thanks
    TQwilliams

    [I don’t have any experience with chambered bodies so I can’t really comment on that. Warmoth insist on it not affecting the tone but send them an e-mail and ask to be sure and also if it will fit your purpose. In regards to neck profiles I’d visit a guitar store and just try a bunch of different necks and pick the one that feels most comfortable for your hands and playing. Doesn’t really matter what the specs are as long as it feels right. Vintage necks tend to feel slightly less ergonomic and efficient and you will also need to keep a slightly higher string action to be able to bend properly. Modern necks are perhaps more comfortable and allows higher bends on lower action. This is in general and again, you should try different necks to make up your mind :) – Bjorn]

  104. Dave Talkin says:

    Bjorn, thanks again for your excellent user friendly site. Though a Pink Floyd fan since Ummagumma and Meddle also buying David’s solo LP, I haven’t ‘tone chased’ Gilour until just recently.
    In 1983 I ordered a Fullerton made Stratocaster ’57 Reissue in black nicknaming her “Blackie” after EC’s version.
    I locked down the bridge and haven’t used the trem arm really since then.
    This guitar is incredibly light and has a sweet bell like tone acoustically!
    I can understand David placing a 1983 neck back on his black #1 as these necks are really unique and play incredibly well.
    I for one love the “7.25 readius having grown up on a 1965 transition logoed Strat as my first guitar back in 1967.
    I have recently purchased the Fulltone Mini Deja Vibe and through your site and others discovered the wonderful Buffalo pedals from Steve in France.
    Yesterday I placed my order with Rogue Guitars for the dynamic Patriot pedal.
    For me this effect does it all.
    I love its versatility and sonic footprint.
    I grew up on Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Faces but the Civil War clone is so much more!
    I could only just barely afford the Patriot so buying a BK Butler Tube Driver is off the table for now.
    I have a Mojo mod Analogman modded DOD YJM308 pedal which was further modded by a friend with more vintage components.
    I plan to experiment with this befor and after the Patriot to see if it gives more ‘drive’ to the Patriot.
    So Gilmour uses the BK Tube Driver after his Sovtek Civil War then?
    I am excited by the prospect of the new Buffalo pedal and cannot wait until it arrives.
    I shall use the Fulltone MDV to simulate the rotary guitar speaker effect.
    I have a Boss DD-6 also modded by Analogman which has a three way switch added to approximate a more vintage style say tape echo. I forget the name of the mod as I had it done so long ago, it may be a mid cut or something similar.
    I know that the effect on “Sorrow” which is the track I am attempting to emulate is obtained with the DG-20 EMG set of pickups, but my ’57/’62 Fender Strat pickups being 31 years old they are extremely vintage sounding and the guitar has aged beautifully so other than clean out the volume pot which has some noise upon use I am hopeful for an authentic sound.
    Amp wise I am using my 2005 Marshall 1959HW 100 watt head with component upgrades by the wizard of Marshall tone George Metropoulos.
    I have had from new the output transformer replaced with what George terms the Dagnall ‘vintage clone’, Allen Bradley carbon comp resistors in key poitions and Sozo signal caps.
    Filter caps are changed to F&T and I am using Mullard reissue EL-34’s with Tung Sol 12AX7 in the preamp stage.
    I am using long 12 gauge custom speaker cables with my 1 year old special ordered Metropoulos True Replica 1982A ’68 Marshall 4X”12 speaker cab fitted with Celestion G12H-30 75 watt Creamback speakers which are just incredible sounding.
    I have a vintage Korg SDD-3300 Triple Digital Delay which has the quietest and most clean effects I have ever heard in my modest rack.
    So in anticipation once the Patriot comes to town as it were I will write a full review here!
    Thanks for reading.
    Dave Talkin

    [Hi Dave! Thanks a lot for sharing! I think you’ll be very pleased with the Patriot :) – Bjorn]

  105. Koray Kurutepe says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    As always, you have been very helpful. I already bought a Gretsch and it will arrive tomorrow from US. It is a TV jones pick up version. This shopping has been made completely blindly. It was one of my friends who bought it for me in US. I could not follow your suggestion as my friend has been there only for 5 days and could not communicate/discuss properly. I just could speak with the seller in the shop a few words through a bad line of long distance call . He told me that TV jones pick ups will satisfy more in terms of versatility. But needed to make a quick decission. I hope I do not regret. Next time, it is going to be exactly as what you say as I agree that LP with mentioned PUs is closer to what we might expect from a tone as gilmour fans.. :)

    [Ha ha, yeah well… I’m sure you’ll be very pleased with the Gretsch. You might have received it already… – Bjorn]

  106. Koray Kurutepe says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I have Fenders (C shape)but now I plan to buy a Gretsch or Gibson. Again, it is the Gilmour which is the starting point for the tone. I loved the one in Meltdown. However, I can not decide whether it should be Gretsch or Gibson and the model for Gretsch. I read reviews and I am mixed up. Any comments might help me. or maybe not, this is because it is a very dificult question to answer :)

    [Personally I prefer a Les Paul. They’re much more versatile I think. The Gretsch guitars, including the Duo Jet that David’s using, are timeless guitars but they have a certain tone and they’re not suited for all kinds of music… that’s my opinion at least. In terms of David’s tones I’d seek out a nice LP and maybe consider replacing the stock pickups for something a bit more Stratty, like PAF or P90s. – Bjorn]

  107. Indra says:

    Hey Bjorn! Been a fan of your site for years, first time commenting!

    I bought an all original/stock Japanese ST-57 which dates back to 2002, and it has a really nice thick neck, which I assume is a soft V profile as per your description. I love the neck so much, that I bought a ’94-95 ST-57 for my second Strat. However, the neck is actually much thinner than the 2002 model! Felt a lot like my ’89 Korean Squier. It bothered me so much, that I bought a replacement neck from a 2009 ST-57, and it has the exact same thick profile as the 2002 model that I was looking for.

    Could it be possible that the earlier models of the ST-57 had a different neck profile?

    [Hi Indra! I’m no expert on the Japanese models but they do have a lot of inconsistencies… or at least differences within the same model. I’m sure there is some logic behind it but they don’t follow the US model specs and have several tweaks to the designs. There are some forums out there and I’m sure they can give you a better answer :) – Bjorn]

  108. Charles says:

    Hi (again)!
    I bought a 2003 American Standard with Seymour Duncan California 50′ mounted in.
    I also have the original pickups, what do you recommend, keep it as is, mount back the oem pickups, or directly the David’s set up?

    Thanks for help!

    [The Cali 50s should do the job :) – Bjorn]

  109. Tom from Chile says:

    Thanks, it’s nice to read that; would 90s japanese be good?

    [The Japanese Fenders has always been very good. During the 80s and up to around the mid 90s, they were considered to be supperior to the US models because they still produced the old specs with the old machines and the wood selection was extremely good. Japanese Fenders are still very good and my experience is that they don’t stand back for any US model. – Bjorn]

  110. Tom from Chile says:

    ***Edit: Getting a used Strat MIJ would cost almost the same as a new CV here in Chile…would you say it’s worth it ? All MIJ’s are great? Thanks and sorry for stealing your time Bjorn!!

    [The more recent MIJs are very nice. – Bjorn]

  111. Tom from Chile says:

    Hey Bjorn, Gilmour-wise, between the Classic Vibe 50s and the 60s, which one would you choose?
    Regardless of the one I choose, I would change the pickups to fender CS’69, so Im not sure…
    Thanks in advance!!

    [Since you’ll be changing the electronics you basically just have the wood left, with their individual contours and specs. It’s all about which one you feel comfortable with and which feels best when you play it. They’re both great guitars but I think you should try them and decide for your self. – Bjorn]

  112. KEITH says:

    @David McCullough, You absolutely can get a Callaham Vintage S that should bolt right on, unless you have the two screw bridge, you won’t need any drilling, or modifications. You can check Bill Callaham’s website, and there is a list that shows what screw, and string spacing each Fender model has. He also answers emails quickly if you have a hard time locating the list. But there are only two different widths!
    Peace, Keith

  113. Tom from Chile says:

    Hey guys, does anyone know where to find a good acoustic guitar in Brazil? Im making a trip soon, and I’d like to get a nice one, thanks in advance!

  114. Gary Swift says:

    Excellent discussions, Bjorn! Just curious if you’ve dabbled with any lapsteel (slide) guitars.

    I suppose we could always just raise the action on a normal guitar and play it on its back across our knees. But for those of us who would like to work on songs such as Breathe, Fat Old Sun, Great Gig in the Sky, High Hopes, One of These Days, Pillow of Winds, Smile, Wot’s Uh the Deal, etc. it would be cool to actually have a dedicated electric lap steel instrument.

    Best wishes from Western Nevada USA!

    [Hi Gary! I’ve played lap a few times but actually never owned or explored them that much. I do play a lot of slide but I prefer doing it on a ragular guitar – usually an LP with a slightly hightened action. – Bjorn]

  115. Michael says:

    Hello Bjorn! I’m a big fan of David, but also a lot of other guitarists like Robert Fripp especially, Jimmy Page, Alex Lifeson, yknow. But because of my other inspirations, I’m torn between a Les Paul and a Strat. I love the Gilmour sound, but I also love the sounds they get, so would I be able to pull off a convincing Gilmour sound with humbuckers, or would the strat be able to cover these other sounds equally well? I’m looking for something versatile that can still hit David’s tones. Thanks!

    [It won’t be exactly the same obviously but you can get very similar tones with an LP loaded with Duncan Phat Cat P90s or a set of low output PAFs. – Bjorn]

  116. Chris C says:

    Hi, this question is for David McCullough

    Wondering if you had gotten your Vintage Modified 70s Squier and what your thoughts are from a fellow Gilmour fan’s point of view. I’ve been looking at this quite a bit lately and hoping to purchase one. How are the pickups. Particularly the bridge? I have an SSL-5 and a set of CS69s but from the demos I’ve heard, the stock pickups sound pretty darn good.

    Thanks for sharing

  117. Kjetil says:

    Hei Bjørn

    Have you tried the Fender Modern Player series? Just recently, I bought a Fender Modern Player Stratocaster HSS as beginner guitar for my 12 year old son, his first electric guitar after playing acoustic guitar for 3 years.

    Thanks for a great website!!

    [Hei Kjetil! The Modern Player series feature some very nice models. The Strat HSS is a mixture of vintage and modern specs, which should fit most players and musical styles. The pickups and the humbucker in particular are on the hotter side, in terms of David’s tones, but it’s a versatile setup that should fit most amps and pedals :) – Bjorn]

  118. Wayne says:

    Hey B…. Have to TY so much for a GREAT website. I purchased the Squire 50’s V awesome Best GuItar ever smoking hot pickups, wonderful clean tones and overdrive and distortion mayhem. I noticed you suggested trading out the tremelo. It’s a vintage bolt down trem and I have had no problem with it ? I also noticed it is the same bolt down trem on the Red Strat ? I’ve had and own Lp. Icemans, Lp 59 .Slash Lp Gt, Fender Am Standard, Rg’s [a toy] This 370.00 dollar Guitar in the #ooo1 style. Blows all of them out of the water with the stock 3 mag rwrp middle stock pick ups. I dig it so much, I dont want to change a thing. Excellent Hendrix, Srv, Trower and sweet lovely clean tone. Anyways ty for the suggestion, you were spot on. So I still want a Gilmour Guitar what do you think about the 920 d custom shops MiM 50’s neck 69 middle ssl 5 bridge Black Strats on ebay ? I know you can get a lemon anytime, What do you think about these Guitars done up like the Gilmour Black Strat ? For a Mim with lota of extras for around 750.00 ??? TY again Sir for all your hard work and information. K

    [Hi Wayne! Those Vintage Vibe guitars are really great, indeed! The trem block is the same style as David’s, based on Fender’s vintage specs, but the quality is far from the same. If it works, then fine but upgrading for something better, will improve your tuning stability and the overall tone. The pre-modded DG style guitars are MIM Fenders with upgrades you can easily perform yourself. If you don’t want to modify and collect all the parts, then this is an option to consider. The price is OK. – Bjorn]

  119. David McCullough says:

    Awesome Info! I just bought a Squier Vintage Modified Stratocaster ’70S and it should be here in about a week. I got it to start a “Gilmourish” Project on the cheap and have heard some great things about it. Do you think I should drop in a Callaham Vintage S? Do you know it will even fit? I have been playing on a Gibson ES-347 for 20 years and this will be my first “Strat” style guitar. I have never moddified any of my guitars in the past so this is all new to me… Thanks again.

    [Hi David! Not sure if the Callaham will fit but send them an e-mail and ask. They’re very helpful. It’s certainly worth upgrading the stock bridge. – Bjorn]

  120. Guille says:

    Hi Bjorn, very nice article and EXCELLENT site! Congratulations, you’ve made a fantastic resource for guitarists and Gilmour fans like me.
    I’m now considering buying an Strat, and I really like the American Standard. But I also saw (never tried it yet) the Ash American Deluxe, and looks beautiful and very well built. Did you tried it? Any advise about the Ash American Deluxe?
    Thanks in advance.

    [Hi! The difference in the wood is described in the feature above :) Apart from that it’s down to taste and what features you feel comfortable with. The guitars are pretty similar but if possible, I recommend that you try both and choose the one with the neck and body contour, laquer etc that fikts your preferences. Both are very fine instruments :) – Bjorn]

  121. Chris Hiatt says:

    I’m always browsing Craig’s list to see what’s available and every once in a while you’ll come across something that..well….

    Just had to share (I think it is still available too).

    1993 Custom Shop Tele & Strat matched set, #3 of just 29

    http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/msg/4325581371.html

    [LOL! Nice! – Bjorn]

  122. Tom says:

    Hi Bjorn!!
    I wanted to thank you, because its just great how you care about our gear problems, I mean you take the time to answer everyone, and that’s just cool
    Thanks for all Bjorn!!!
    Ahh, also I wanted to say, Airbag is just great, ‘hope everything keeps going fine for you and your band

    -Tom

    [Thank you Tom! It’s all a pleasure :) – Bjorn]

  123. Dmitri says:

    Thanks for the killer articles. Really well put, if I may say.

    For my own playing, I mostly use Squier CV Strats with a few mods. I have a CAR 60s Strat that I swapped the neck on (put on a soft V maple board Strat neck) and popped in a better trem/block, nut, and electronics (upgraded pots/switch/jack and a set of D. Allen Echoes pups (another great set of Gilmour-ish pups). I got lucky and got most of the parts really cheap.

    The rest of my guitars are 50s/60s style Strats and LPs, to complement the tone I get from my Gilmour Strat.

    I appreciate that you don’t try to force $3000 dollar fiddles down everyone’s throat – not all of us have that kind of income. For me, with a busy life and a packed gigging schedule, the lower end CVs and MIMs with mods are more than enough. Nothing worse than banging up an expensive guitar or having it stolen when on the road…

    [Thanks for your kind words and for sharing! – Bjorn]

  124. Smurfman256 says:

    Hey, Bjorn. Your opinion of the new Classic series with the Nitrocellulose finishes? (On a sidenote, the moment that I was that they has a Classic 50’s strat in Candy Apple Red, all of the David Gilmour fans were going to “squee” and slap some EMG pickups in them.)

    [I have only tried them briefly. Sounds and plays very well, I think. – Bjorn]

  125. Joshua says:

    Hello, I have a chance to buy a 1999 fender Japan st-57 stratocaster for $560.00 in candy apple red, I already have a set of dg-20 pickups which i would put in it. Do you think it would be a good quality guitar for the price? Thank you for your help.

    [Yep. Of course it depends on the condition of the guitar but in general, those ST models are great! – Bjorn]

  126. Chris Hiatt says:

    I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a MIM Classic Series 50s Stratocaster but I’m a bit perplexed on the commentary above regarding the tremolo system. The suggestion is that it be replaced as it is unstable.

    That strikes me as odd since many of the other Strat models on the higher end appear to have the same system (according to specs on Fender’s website).

    Can you elaborate? And, if it should be replaced can anyone suggest some viable replacement options?

    [You don’t have to replace the system but it’s one of the things you can do to improve the guitar’s tone and tuning stability. Make sure that you get a proper setup for the guitar that fits your playing. If you’re not familiar with how to do this then get the shop to do it or a technician/luthier. A higher quality system, like the Callaham Vintage S, has a better operation, less friction and a block that allows the strings to sustain better. What’s important is that you like the guitar and that it’s set up to your specifications. Replacing hardware and pickups is somethings you can consider later. – Bjorn]

  127. Roger Sartori says:

    Hey, Bjorn, what about giving us some tips and stuff about home recording? Most of us don’t know how to do that neither what we need to do that…

    [Check out this feature for some tips. – Bjorn]

  128. André says:

    Thank’s Bjorn, the tone that i want is dark side… beside the guitar i have a fender superchamp xd and one pedal tubescreamer.

    [Hi, check out the Time tone tutorial for some setup tips and the Buyer’s Gear Guide for overdrive and distortion for some tips on choosing versatile pedals that’ll work with your amp. Hope this helps :) – Bjorn]

  129. André says:

    Hi Bjorn, I bought a fender stratocaster standard mim 2002, and i want to know if it’s a good guitar to get the gilmour’s tone… do you think that i need to change anything in this strat?

    [I’d consider replacing the pickups perhaps into something a bit more Black Strat-ish or the EMG DG20 if PULSE is your thing. The stock pickups are OK but they’re a bit more modern sounding with boosted mid range and a darker tone. Other than that the guitar should be able to deliver some very nice tones depending on your amp and pedals :) – Bjorn]

  130. Ben says:

    Hey Bjorn,

    I was thinking about buying a Telecaster as I’ve been really into Animals. Also, since I already have a Strat I thought it would be a nice change. There is a guy selling a used MIM Tele for $240. Do you know what to look for when buying used guitars? I don’t want to accidentally buy a bad guitar.

    Hope your new year is fantastic!

    [Hi Ben! Basically what you would look at on a new guitar, as explained in this feature. What model and year is it? Personally I think the MIM Standards from the early 2000s and earlier are not worth it. The hardware and pickups can always be replaced but check out the neck especially. You can adjust a curved neck but a twisted one is very difficult and it’s gonna cost you. Other than that, try the guitar and feel how it plays. – Bjorn]

  131. Jason says:

    Bought a 1989 MIK Squier Strat(Best feeling neck I’ve played on a Strat thus far, without any unnecessary exaggeration, haha.)
    I’ve swapped the neck pickup for a DiMarzio Virtual Vintage Blues pickup, and placed a CS 69 in the bridge, both of which have really elevated the guitar’s prowess and have made it an every-day player. The middle pickup sounded fine as it was. Your thorough guide and some personal research have helped me bring out a wonderful Gilmour-inspired instrument.

    Side note: I switched out a few capacitors in a new “Block logo” phase 90, as well as removing the R28 resistor that generates the pre-existing ‘overdrive’, and I’m getting some nice “warbles” from it. I played it next to an original 1975 Phase 90 the other day(Guitar Center reeled one in!) and the difference made by a few swapped caps and snipped resistor was tremendous.

    Thanks much!

    [Thanks for sharing, Jason! – Bjorn]

  132. Ian Mcdonald says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    I have been offered a 50s Road Worn Strat in black for half the recommended list price, its on sale in the shop now. The problem is I can’t get to try it for a few weeks, I was going to buy a 70s Classic strat in black before they offered me the 50s RW, dilemma do I pay £600 for a £1000 RW’ or £600 for the Classic with no discount.
    I thought the 70s Classic would have the better Gilmour type tone, but at the top of this page you advise to buy the 50s RW’…. any advice you give would be helpfull.
    Ian Mcdonald.

    [Although both the neck and body wood make up much of the tone you can always mod the guitar with new pickups for a tone closer to what you want. In this case, both guitars will give you a nice Gilmour tone and if you swap the stock pickups with something even more Gilmourish, then you got yourself a nice instrument! You should be aware that the RW guitars are heavy reliced and they have a faded body finish, which makes them sound slightly darker than other non reliced guitars. Some like the feel and tone but others can’t stand it. You should definitely try before buying. – Bjorn]

  133. Keith says:

    Sorry for the length, but I’m manic over a guitar I didn’t know existed anynore.
    Peace, Keith, Uncle Ebb, Clarke

  134. Keith says:

    Hey everyone, serial poster Uncle Ebb, with a recommendation! While David is known for his use of Stratocasters on all tours, fact is, he used many other guitars, and pickups for the recording of many of your favorite tracks. I walked into Sam Ash and saw a Gibson SG that brought some beautiful, yet painful memories of a rare White ’63 SG special, that was stolen in 1985. I had to almost do a doubletake, before I knew it was a brand new, 2011 50th Anniversay Pete Towmshend SG Special, with the same mods both Townshend, and coincidentally, I made to mine. Instead of the Stock Maestro tremolo that was stock on SG Specials, I had a wraparound installed, and changed my tuners top Grovers. Because PT preferred the same mods, this guitar comes that way from the factory. I picked up the guitar, and 1982 came rushing back to me. The stock, totally vintage correct p-90s cover everything, from an overwound Strat pickup, into PAF range, and the axe has an infinite number of tones available via the 3 way switch, and separate volume, and tone for each soapbar! I strongly recommend this guitar for any style of music, the thin, c shaped, yet narrow neck, with a flat 12″ radius, is so easy to play, you can bend the high E over the top of the neck if you want. This is the first atock Gibson made after the late ’70s, I’d consider buying, and this one somehow got lost, and resurfaced in time for me to pluck it for $1000.00! Used ones are going for generally $1300.00 on eBay, but I did see one for $900.00! Someone should grab it, it will only increase in value, and will play better, and look better with age. Not the typical Gilmourish guitar, but it sings Gilmour, Cream, Townshend, and any damn thing you want. Check it out on the Gilmourish Facebook page. It’s beautiful, and sounds like heaven!

    Sorry fir the

  135. J.M. says:

    Great overall reviews on the guitars. Just a few observations from my playing. As far as the bridges CV Squiers and MIM Strats go, they in themselves really aren’t unstable any more then a 2 point MIA bridge. Setup, lubrication, and balancing the spring tension of the bridge against the string tension are the most important things to keep in mind. Most of the times that you knock a Strat out of tune with the term it’s usually the strings getting bound up in the nut or at the saddles. A little pencil graphite or even chapstick goes a long way to help the strings return back to their zeroed position. Also properly winding and stretching your strings is a huge factor too.

    A lot of people ignore these steps and then blame the term itself for tuning issues.

    Love your blog btw.

    But like you said it’s all about what feels good to you.

    [Thanks for the input, JM. Very important points that you’re making. I use a mixture of pencil graphite and hair wax for all my guitars and it does the trick. Although all this lubrication, stretching and whatnot helps a great deal it’s also about the construction of the bridges and the saddles. A stable tuning require as little friction as possible and as smooth as possible operation, which also means that all the slots and saddles needs to have the right angle, length etc… some of the cheaper models and hardware doesn’t quite have this standard. – Bjorn]

  136. Malcik says:

    Hi all,

    First of all thanks very much for this great website! I have a question on guitars. So far I’ve been using my first guitar, which is a Squier stratocaster. I’m thinking of buying a Mexican Fender 50s Classic strat because it seems to be the best value for money. This article says that over last decade, Mexican Fenders improved significantly. Could you give me some more specific info as to the timing of this improvement? The reason is that I have an opportunity to buy a used piece which was manufactured 2005-2006 and I’m not sure if this time period is already the “improved quality” for the Mexican Fenders or not. Thanks!

    [Hi Malcik. I now the MIMs got an overhaul in the early 2000s and the Standards in particular got a few upgrades just recently but for a more precise dating and for all the specs I think you’re better off searching for some reviews or perhaps even post a question on the Fender forum or Gear Page. I’m sure they can answer better than I. What I do know though is that a MIM Classic from 2005/06 is a very good instrument. The neck is very easy to play and feels very natural. As with all the MIM guitars I’d consider replacing the pickups with something better and, if your budget allows it, upgrade the bridge and pots as well. With that you’ll get a great instrument. – Bjorn]

  137. Tim says:

    I’ve had quite a few guitars over the years but have found the stratocaster is my favourite. I’ve had a number of these including a 70’s U.S made hardtail in “antigua” (ugh!), which was a fairly dead guitar, an early Tokai “springy sound” which wasn’t bad but choked like crazy if you tried to bend the strings too far. I’ve a Japanese “Strat” with a kramer trem which is very nicely made but has a locking nut which I hate, a mexican classic player with vintage frets and neck radius( which are, even in the words of the great strat player, Robin Trower, “bloody hard work”),….and my favourites…a bullet squier I found in a shed which has a great neck and a plywood body(!), and 2 squier standards which have quite different neck profiles. The squiers are all comfy to play, I dont’ have to worry about dings and dents. I’ve sanded the necks, tinted them and applied tru oil or nitro, filed the fret ends etc and they’re great. Fit new pickups when the mood suits. Moral of the story is, cheap guitars suit me fine!…Having said that, I’m trying to save for a K-Line “strat” in fiesta red…just got to find the best part of £2000!

    [Yep, you can find some very nice guitars within the budget range and recent upgrades and move to low cost countries and factories have made it possible to offer very good instruments for very little. – Bjorn]

  138. Keith says:

    @Shaun Porter, the six screw bridge is vintage correct, and the screw spacing should be 2 7/32. If it’s an MIM, or whatever it is, as long as it’s fender, Bill Callaham’s site has a chart telling you what the string spacing for the body should be. It wiil be either 2 7/32, or the slightly narrower 2 1/16. Either way, the screw spacing can be 2 7/32, most are, but screw spacing doesn’t tell you the correct string spacing. So, if the screw spacing is 2 7/32, you still need to check the chart for the string spacing. In theory, my handcrafted Strat, should have the 2 7/32 string spacing, but often, that puts the strings too close to the edge of the neck for me, abd especially with the way sone frets are finished, it can cause problems, so since the difference, is only 1/32 per string narrower,I went with the 2 1/16 spacing, Callaham vintage S Bridge, but my screw spacing is 2 7/32, as most are. Consult Bill’s site, or Bill himself, and you will get the perfect fit. Just my two cents, as I’m building guitars now.
    Peace, Keith

  139. Shaun Porter says:

    Hi Bjorn, in regard to “Scooter’s” comment above, I was leaning toward the total vintage neck myself having looked them over. I also liked the fact that it had the 7.25″ radius. Your right- prices are pretty good for what you get. One thing I’m not sure of and maybe I missed on the site was verification that the maple necks stock used are from quarter sawn material or not! This would be the last factor to confirm b-4 I buy. My guitar body came today I noticed it had the vintage 6 point bridge drill pattern. I believe it has the MIM more narrow spacing but will have to verify. Getting pretty excited though! Shaun

    [Nice! Try sending a request. They’ve been very helpful. – Bjorn]

  140. Scooter says:

    Hi Bjorn
    I’m also building a blk strat out of a 97 MIM and have looked at the warmoth necks but there is so many to chose from. So could you point out what I should be looking for and what options to help me with ny selection
    Thanks again
    Scott

    [Depends on what you want. A good tip is to visit your local guitar store and try a bunch of different necks. I prefer the Strat Total Vintage but you might prefer something else. – Bjorn]

  141. Shaun Porter says:

    Thanks Bjorn, I will need all the luck I can get. If its alright with you, I was hoping to keep you in the loop as it progresses for your sheer entertainment if nothing else. I did see some of the Warmoth necks online and will now be taking a better look at them thanks as always for pointing me in a good direction. Shaun

    [Please do! – Bjorn]

  142. Shaun Porter says:

    Hi Bjorn, I definitely got the itch again, I’m going to take a crack at putting together a”Black Strat”–going out of control with pursuit of equip. looks like a complete overhaul is in my future. I just picked up a presumed MIC black Strat standard alder?? body. Going in for the fat 50/69’s and ssl5 pup package, now I’m looking at necks. Lookin at a great deal of the posts above I’m getting some mixed feelings on the MIM Strats. What is your opinion on MIM maple necks in particular for this build? Will a MIM neck perform and last as well as MIA or is it important to spend the extra $ on an American neck. Also I see a lot of licensed Fender aftermarket necks out there including mighty mite? ETC, if you could shed some experienced advice on this it would be great. What neck will work for this MIC body best on a budget? I should be clear I’m more worried about performance and quality than bragging rights of a name but though resale is not my motivation now, it should be a consideration for the future. Thanks very much, Shaun

    [Hi Shaun! The MIM Strats have gotten some much needed upgrades lately and the hold a very high quality now. The Classic Series guitars are very nice and the necks are widely available on EBay. Nothing wrong with them compared to the US. Still, I do recommend checking out Warmoth. They make, probably, the finest replacement parts available and they’re quite affordable considering the craftmanship that’s layed into it. I have a couple of their custom necks and the beat everything else that I got. Good luck on the project! – Bjorn]

  143. Roger says:

    At Guitar Fetish website they sell a guitar strat-style branded Xaviere XV-870 the “Darkside” model. It looks like Gilmour’s black strat. They are very cheap! Anyone got it tested? I know they are theoretically poorer than Fender’s strats but there are a few reviews describing it as a fair guitar. But we don’t see anything about that “Darkside” model. Maybe it could be a good stuff for exercising Gilmour styel.

  144. Keith says:

    Hey Bjorn, ordering all the materials for my first three prototypes Monday, should have the first ones finished in a little over a month,( nitro finishes are slow in their evaporation period, as nitro doesn’t cure like other paints, but evaporates), one will be a Basswood Body. Shoot me an email, and we’ll discuss the ideal Strat, according to your tastes!
    Peace, Love, and Gilmourish, UNCLE EBB

    [Sounds awesome Keith! I’ll be in touch! – Bjorn]

  145. Keith says:

    Hey Bjorn, and everyone! I know that I post a lot, and I hope it doesn’t make too many of you sick of my posts. I’d like to explain a little about me, and why I do so much posting. I’m a person who soaks up information about my interests, and being self employed, as a heating, and A/C contractor, which I have always loathed, and a have gotten to the point where change is necessary, I have a lot of free time to research, and learn everything I can about guitars, and the electronics that relate to them. I met a young man through this site in the spring, and though he lives in Europe, we have texted for several hours each day. Because guitars are very expensive where he lives, and he was very specific about what he wanted, I offered to purchase a proper body, and neck, and build him a Black Strat, within his budget. I enjoy helping people, and was blessed with great technical, mechanical, and building skills,( and not much else!), so we agreed. I found a 2009 Roadworn Strat, disassembled it, had it refinished, and did a great deal of work to adjust an otherwise perfect neck, and shipped it to Europe yesterday. My young friend should recieve his Beautiful Black Strat by Thursday, or Friday at the latest. I had a lot of help from folks I’ve mentioned, asking Tom, of Rodriguez guitars, and Lindy, of Fralin pickups a ton of questions, but did all but the making of a new bone nut myself, and only because I don’t have my nut files yet. I’ll let my friend be the judge of the skills I’ve developed in doing my own repairs, mods, and setups for over 30 years, but I have decided to start building Strat, and Tele style guitars, under the Uncle Ebb’s brand. They will be made from the finest materials, and made to your specs. I hope because I as yet haven’t started, that you won’t mind this post Bjorn, but there will be several models in my Gilmourized series, including a Basswood bodied Bjorn Riis model, dedicated to the man, and his site, and if he chooses, he will provide the specs for what he thinks to be the perfect combination of woods, and components. I’m taking classes from a master Luthier, and my pickup guru, plus I have 30+ years of working on the beasts. I’m not trying to sell anything, just talking about a future project, and I’m just trying to end 35 years of a business I hate, and eek out a living doing something I love. If and when this happens, I will annouce it properly, for now, I’m just talking about an idea.
    Peace, Love, and Gilmourish always, Uncle Ebb!

    [We’re all very much looking forward to follow this project Keith! Keep us posted :) – Bjorn]

  146. Dean says:

    There is a secret highly under-rated overlooked, and way underpriced USA Strat out there
    It’s as well built as any Custom Shop if you can find one that hasn’t been altered or just have the neck and claim it is the guitar. I worked for Fender in Corona, Ca in the “tune/test” dept.

    The guitar: an (s/s/s version) of the 1997/98 California Series Guitars.

    *if you ever can get one I highly recommend it.

    The builders in the Custom Shop know it.

    There are many great Strats out there, but these are exceptional build
    With a price tag of only $500-800

    And what you get is worth way more. A little secret for you guys :)

    The only thing you have to upgrade if you like (I do) is the pickups which are Tex-Mex.

    Love this site!!

    Cheers

    [Thanks a lot for the info, Dean! – Bjorn]

  147. Daniel Haas says:

    Hello Bjorn, I want to build a Black Strat but I also want to change some things and put it the way I think it’s better, I don’t want an exact copy of it. I am having some trouble because even though I have been listening to Pink Floyd for a LONG time, I can’t describe the original black strat sound, I can’t tell if it has a hot sound or a more open, bright sound. If you could help me it would be awesome. I want to know these kind of thigs, how exactly does the black strat sound technically speaking?
    Thanks my friend, cheers!

    [The main difference between the early 70s era and now are the pickups. The stock guitar, which stayed pretty much stock between 1970-72, featured late 60s pickups similar to the Fender CS69s (and similar models from other brands). These have a low output, transparent tone and glassy highs. The current version of the Black Strat, feature early 70s neck and middle pickups, which are fairly similar to the stock pickups (it’s fair to assume) but a Duncan SSL1c (identical to the SSL5), which has a lot more output, with a boosted mid range and low end. The original maple neck also had a slightly different contour than the current, which does play a role. The more subtle differences are how David set his Hiwatt amps compared to now, the cables and pedals he used, the recordings we have as reference and how these are obviously different, the fact that wood and laquer change over time, which again has an effect on the tone… there’s lots of variables and things that will make it hard to describe the tone in details but I think you have the essence now :) See the Black Strat feature for more details. – Bjorn]

  148. Pablo says:

    Hi Bjorn, just looking at buying my first strat and there are a few MIJ available online but my question is whether I’m better off buying a new one or a second hand one.

    Cheers

    [Depends on the quality of the used, I guess. Japanese Fenders from the 80s especially are considered to be superior but the current models are amazing too and, in my opinion, just as good as any US. – Bjorn]

  149. Randolph Werner says:

    Bjorn,

    The other day I walked into my local music shop, and as I looked around at all of the Stratocasters that they had for sale, I noticed that they had a few Fender American Vintage Series reissues for sale. Specifically a black ’56, a Sonic Blue ’59, and a Dakota Red ’65.

    Now of course being a fan of David and his infamous black Stratocaster, the black ’56 was the very first one that I laid my hands on.

    So without even plugging the guitar into an amplifier, I played a few phrases from Shine On and Comfortably Numb. I would have to say that this particular guitar played very nice, however it didn’t feel as I would have liked it to be and the notes were a little stiff for me to bend.

    Next came the Dakota Red ’65. Well, because David had a red guitar too right?

    So again, without even plugging the guitar into an amplifier, I played a few phrases from Shine On and Comfortably Numb, and the guitar played very nice and had a great sustain too it. The notes were a whole lot easier to bend than the ’56, and it even had a “C” shaped neck with 7.25″ radius too, just like David’s.

    So my only complaint at the time, was that it had a rosewood fretboard… which David’s famous red Stratocaster clearly did not.

    Now onto the Sonic Blue ’59, which was not the correct color of any of David’s guitars, it had an odd 10 hole pickguard, a rosewood fretboard, and and “D” shaped neck with 7.25″ radius.

    So aside from the 7.25″ radius fretboard and it being a Fender Stratocaster, this guitar had nothing to do with any of David’s guitars, and by all consideration it shouldn’t have even been considered by me Right?

    Well, this is the point where I think that your article touched on something very important that everyone should remember when it comes to buying a guitar, especially when it comes down to looking for that elusive Gilmour tone.

    “An instrument is all about inspiration. You are the musician and the guitar is the tool you use to express your feelings and music. It may sound like a cliché but you need to be at one with the guitar for the inspiration to flow. This has nothing to do with what models you choose or how much they cost. You could very well build the guitar yourself from scrap metal but what’s important is that you’re comfortable with holding the guitar in your hands, playing it and the sound it creates”

    So this is the very guitar that I paid for and took home that day.

    As you stated in you article “what’s important is that you’re comfortable with holding the guitar in your hands, playing it and the sound it creates”, and this guitar did this for me.

    I have come to learn that there are three very different things when it comes to wanting to play like your favorite guitar player:

    1.) Looking like them
    2.) Attempting to sound exactly like them
    and
    3.) Playing their music through your hands while closely matching their sound.

    Just because a guitar isn’t black or red with a specific this or that on it, doesn’t mean that you should just ignore any other Stratocaster, or any other guitar for that matter, just because its not the exact model and specifications to what David played or has ever used in any show or recording session.

    I think too often people tend to get caught up with trying to look just like David, and trying to match his sound exactly, that they forget one very important fact… that even if David Gilmour himself invited you over for some tea at his house, and then handed you his black Stratocaster plugged into all of his equipment, you will never be him or sound exactly like him.

    The End

    Again as you stated, “You are the musician and the guitar is the tool you use to express your feelings and music”.

    As long as you can make the guitar sing and it feels good when in your hands, is all that’s important, its the very thing that you use to make the music with, and everything after the guitar is all just extra stuff to enhance what’s already coming from your hands through the guitar.

    I think that Fender is really making some really great quality Stratocasters lately, so for anyone looking for one go out and give them a try.

    And remember…Go into the guitar shop with an open mind, with no particular model or color in mind, just let your hands decide for you.

    Bjorn can help you with the rest.

    Cheers!

    [Thanks a lot for a great comment and congrats on your new guitar! – Bjorn]

  150. Martin Taylor says:

    Hi Bjorn,
    Loving your site as there is so much information on here that I need as a newbie.
    I’m looking at building a guitar from scratch following your recommendations. With Callaham bridge, ssl5 bridge pickup, cs 69”s middle and neck. I was looking at putting these on a vintage reissue 57 body but I saw someone on youtube using a Warmoth body and neck and was wondering how these compare to a reissue 57. I will use a Fender Champion 600 amp. Also I was wondering if you have tried any English effects pedals as almost all the ones you review are from the US and may not be that easy to find over here.
    Off to read and learn some more from this great site. Thanks, keep up the good work.

    [Hi Martin! Sorry for my late reply. Warmoth makes awesome stuff. Very high quality and I guess, in some cases, even better than Fender… and, you get to build a full custom body and neck! I have a maple 57 neck my self and couldn’t be happier. The hardware and pickups you’ve chosen seems like a nice fit. I’m sure Keith here also has some wise words on how to proceed on guitar projects. Are there any English or European pedals you have in mind? – Bjorn]

  151. John says:

    I’ve got several strats: USA, USA Deluxe, USA California Series, ’57 Reissue, and a MIM. I love the ’57 for a lot of reasons, but it’s one that I’m not going to customize. My main guitars (black and red, what else) are both USA California series; these were only made in ’97-’98, but are great guitars and are perfect for me. The feel of these guitars would make them my main guitars regardless, but both were in a price range that I felt “OK” with upgrading the pickups, pickguards, etc to make the “Gilmour-esque” guitars.

    My advise is don’t get stuck on the USA/CIJ/MIM. My USA and USA deluxe are excellent guitars, but the fret board is a bit wide for my hands…I’d actually prefer the MIM to play, and if you’re going to change the components anyway, the MIM is a lot less money. I also highly recommend the Callaham bridge, saddles, block, and trem arms…excellent additions to an already great guitar.

    [Sounds like you got some nice sounding guitars, John! The whole USA/CIJ/MIM debate is really pointless. Ultimately it comes down to which guitar you feel comfortable with. Cheers! – Bjorn]

  152. Matt says:

    Allo!

    Just bought myself an FSR American special….My goodness what a guitar, tex mex pickups and greasebucket tone circuit, maple neck with nice big chunky frets, ash body – I sound like a walking advert for fender but this thing is glorious!!!!

    Your articles have dragged me away from a sameold sameold sound …. I’m going away to read about stomp boxes….. :)

    [Congrats on your guitar, Matt! – Bjorn]

  153. Pete Walsh says:

    GREAT article.
    My main guitar right now is a 2005 MIM I bought used at the local guitar store. I bought based on the neck, (a fat 50’s style “C” maple) and the sound played acoustically. The pickups in it were bad, (too muddy sounding), so I replaced those. Also replaced the nut, tuners, and bridge.

    You are absolutely correct about the MIM bridges. The only way they stay in tune is if you add extra springs, set it flush to the body, and throw away the arm.

    [Thanks Pete and congrats on your guitar! – Bjorn]

  154. Andrew says:

    Bjorn, how high strings on your Strats? Particularly interested height of high E and B strings. For David stuff ( where are lot of strong bends) on vintage small radius neck, must be sufficient height, but it gives some problems) What balance you found optimum for yourself, please tell.
    thx in advance and sorry for my English.

    [I keep my action slightly higher than what’s recommended by Fender. About 3mm or so measured at the 17th fret. Stock setup is just too low for my playing. Raise the strings until you find the sweetspot between unplayable and too high :) – Bjorn]

  155. aggeloskrv says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I observe that the pickguard from the black strat is totally black.I want to change my white pickguard on my strat with a black but i found only the 3 ply black fender pickguard…

    The total black pickguard is Fender from other manufacturer?

    Sorry for my English!

    Thank you!!

    [There are one ply pickguards available but they’re for 8 holes. You could also just use a black marker pen and cover the white line on the 3-ply :) – Bjorn]

  156. Cillian says:

    Without spending ridiculous money on the signature model… Is the Gilmour grail guitar an american ’57 reissue with the pickups swapped out for CS 69’s with an SSL5 and the bridge changed for callaham? Is this my option or is there something else I should consider?

    [Not a bad option at all. I don’t really see the point in paying twice for a NOS. That being said, I strongly recommend checking out a Fender CIJ or MIJ ST57. Amazing quality and half the price of a US 57. – Bjorn]

  157. Antônio says:

    Hey there, Bjorn!

    Have you ever seen those Made In Brazil Fenders? Any thoughts on those? Heard it got low quality parts. Maybe that’s why they stopped production in the 90’s… Anyway, did you had the oportunity to play one of them?

    Cheers!

    [I’m not familiar with those. From what I know it was a short lived project under lisence or something with only a few hundred guitars made. – Bjorn]

  158. Gary says:

    Bjorn your site is excellent and you should be very proud of it!

    I bought an American Stratocaster Standard with case and to be honest I don’t care for it. I’m trying to find a Luther to set it up for me. In the mean time I have a ESP/LTD MH103QM that I love. It only cost me $300.00(US) but it’s a great guitar. It plays well and stays in tune no matter were I bend it. I just recently picked up the guitar again and I learned how to play the solo’s of time and mother(live version) thanks to you and much more. I think D Gilmour is a fantastic guitar player and I love emulating his playing as it appears you do.

    I have several other instruments and pedals: Ovation Acoustic guitar and Mandolin, Boss RT-20, RAT, MXR 108, Carbon Copy, BD-2, Big Muff, Del. Elect. Mistris, MXR 10 EQ, and a few others.

    Thanks letting me add my 2 cents.

    [Thanks for your kind words, Gary! Glad you enjoy my site :) – Bjorn]

  159. Kevin says:

    My DG strat from 920d Custom Shop arrived yesterday and I’ve had a couple of hours to play on it and here is a mini-review.

    First Impressions ….
    We’ve all been in situations where you pickup a guitar and play it and you instantly love it or hate. In this case, I absolutely loved it. I would have played it more if that pesky thing called “work” didn’t get in the way but I’ll make up for it this weekend…
    The guitar arrived in perfect condition and I could tell it had a really good setup done on it unlike 95% of the guitars I’ve played at GC. I only had to tune it up, put in the tremolo arm, and I was ready to rock. In addition, I noticed that they included the documentation for the CS-69, Fat 50’s, and SSL-5 pickups which was a nice reassurance. I also verified that the strap locks and gig bag were included and a nice surprise was that they also included a strap which wasn’t mentioned in the description.

    Tone and Playability …
    This is my 2nd strat so I have another to kind of compare it to. My first strat (it’s my favorite guitar) is a 2004 American Standard Texas Special Fat Strat (SSH) with SD Texas Special single coils and a SD Pearly Gates humbucker and I love it for blues, rock, and even some metal. My new strat plays just as well but the feel is slightly different. It almost feels as if the fretboard is a smidge narrower and the frets are a tad shorter than on my Fat Strat; however, it still feels great underneath my fingers. My only gripe is that it feels like my thumb wants to stick on the back of the neck on my fretting hand instead of gliding, but I think that will go away as I play it more…. As far as tone goes, I really really like it especially in the neck position. I also fell in love instantly with the bridge pickup with the neck pickup blended in. That combination kind of reminds me of the sound of my P90 equipped PRS McCarty in the neck position. I think this is a feature I’m going to get modded into some of my other guitars as well…. The bridge pickup sounds OK with gain, but I really prefer humbuckers in the bridge for a heavier tone so I’m a bit biased there but it still gets a decent dirty tone… I don’t really use the middle pickup all that much so I don’t have much to say about that. One thing that really surprised me is how versatile this guitar is. It is great for that Gilmour sound but I also think it sounds great for funk rhythm and it has a nice chimey sound when playing through a Vox AC30 patch on my POD HD500. It kinda reminded me of Townshend’s old SG/P90 sound.

    Additional Thoughts …
    I would definitely recommend this guitar especially for those on a budget. I was kind of skeptical about the whole MIM vs MIA and I now feel a lot more comfortable with MIM guitars. If I didn’t know how to spot an MIM strat and someone gave me this guitar I would have thought it was a $1200 American Standard. I could maybe tell a difference if I had a similar MIA strat to compare it to, but on its own it sounds and plays great. I think we put too much stock in labels and country of origin and a good guitar is a good guitar – period! I also did some research into the cost of the individual ‘upgrades’ (pickups, tuners, pickups) and the cost of those alone is around $200 retail so $750 (without discount) is a very reasonable price. A Standard MIM strat retails for $500 so if you add $200 for the upgrades and factor in labor then the guy is still making a decent profit and the price is very fair. Overall, I’m very impressed with it so far. I will post additional comments if I notice any problems or issues and I’ll try to get off my lazy ass and post some sound clips.

    [Congrats on your new guitar! Glad you’re happy with it :) – Bjorn]

  160. Keith Clarke says:

    I have done a lot of checking, and with that Callaham, and a quality Basswood, you are right, it would give the guitar more sustain than a regular bridge, and the softer basswood does have more low end punch, that’s why so many basses are basswood. And with the Reeves, you certainly don’t need to worry that it doesn’t have as much high end response as Alder. Sorry if I offended anyone, it was not my intention. Just don’t see many Basswood guitars in the States.
    Peace Bjorn, and all of the Gilmourish community! KC

    [No worries, Keith! Thanks for checking it up. It’s all a matter of taste anyway but at least in my experience I’ve never played a basswood guitar that I didn’t like. – Bjorn]

  161. Keith Clarke says:

    Basswood is very light, which is nice, but it’s used in mostly the bottom of the line guitars, and perhaps the basswood they use in Japan is better , but I find it soft, and not as warm. I prefer Alder, as Ash tends to be too heavy, and a little bright. I love Mahogany, but have only seen one Mahogany Strat in my life. Perhaps it’s a personal thing, but just never been a basswood fan, and the only guitars I see in the States made of Basswood, are the cheapest of the squiers, and such.

    [I’m no expert on wood but my experience is that Japanese Fenders with basswood are top of the line. Never liked ash and although alder is nice and balanced I sometimes find it a bit too neutral and anonymous. Basswood has more lower end and a bit of punch. Subjective taste I know but I’ve never seen any bad reviews on CIJ Fender basswoods. – Bjorn]

  162. Alex says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    Excellent article as usual

    In my case, I used a Deluxe roadhouse model. I changed the pickups by a SSL5 and Fat 50s. The pickgard was changed to the same as that of David Gilmour with the mini switch, I put a lot of time finding the same pickgard with the same thickness and the same brought to light (thank you to a friend guitar maker). The tremolo bar was shortened and changed the tuners by vintage tuners.

    It’s perfect, I’ll never would separate :)

    [Sounds sweet :) – Bjorn]

  163. Duane says:

    Hey Bjorn, thanks for the reply earlier.

    I was recently looking at a deluxe strat, and I liked some of what I saw till I read the pickups were n3 noiseless… which I have NO experience with. It is literally a 3-4 hour drive from where I live to any authorized fender dealers so I’m wondering if you or anyone else has any experience with these before I actually take a drive to try one.

    Atm my settup is looking like a peavey classic 30 with boss dd-20, rt-20, bd-2, mxr dyna comp and most likely a rat2 though I’m wondering if the 30 could handle a big muff as well.

    Anyway, any thoughts are appreciated, about the pickups or any additions to my setup I’m badly missing. thanks again.

    [Personally I don’t like the Noiseless pickups. They sound a bit too modern and dark for my taste. Hard to describe really but the tone is perhaps somewhere between vintage style single coils and the EMGs. They don’t sound like crap so if you’re certain about the guitar you can always change the pickups later on. The Classic 30 handles Muffs very well. – Bjorn]

  164. Steve says:

    I just picked up a Japanese ST 54 reissue, in Olympic White, that I plan to make a 0001 clone. What an amazing guitar. I had a Japanese Fender back in the early 80’s and sold it. I have regretted that decision ever since. Do yourself a favor and pick one of these up, you will not be disappointed. I currently own an American 57 reissue and the Japanese model is just as nice, if not better. I am referring to the neck and body. Their attention to detail is spot on. The electronics in both I switched out. But if you can find a Japanese Fender on Ebay, pick one up, they are beautiful for the price!!

    [Congrats! All my Fenders are Japanese :) Love ‘em! – Bjorn]

  165. Keith Clarke says:

    @the Guy’s talking about $750 DG Strats. Locking tuners suck, Gohtoh Vintagd Strat tuners actually stay in tune, and look vintage correct. Ask is the body is one piece Alder, or Ash, not crappy Basswood. Also ask if they use vintage cloth covered wire, CTS pots, and not 20 guage plaztic covered wire. Only other thing I can think of, is a one piece neck blank, and fret board material! If it has those things, the parts alone cost half of that $750.00, and you could have found a great guitar, but as Bjorn always says, mass production quality is quite varied, so I’d make sure they offer a return policy!
    Peace, and good luck, Keith

    [Thanks for the input Keith. I must say that I strongly disagree in regards to your comment about basswood. I would like to hear what experience you have to back this up. My experience with basswood is nothing but positive and I actually prefer it over ash and perhaps even alder. My main Strat is basswood. So is my Tele. Both CIJ. I think basswood has a bit more presence than alder and perhaps even a bit more punch, whereas alder is more balanced but in my opinion also a bit anonymous. – Bjorn]

  166. Javid says:

    Hi Bjorn,

    I have budgeted up to 1400.00$ for the Fender Stratocaster, Please let me know which fender Stratocaster I should get for Pink Floyd songs and where I should buy it. If I should change the pickup please tell me the spects.

    Thanks a lot for all you do for us.

    Javid

    [Hi Javid. I’ve listed a bunch of models in this guide and you’ll find a guide for pickups here. All of these will fit David’s sounds from pretty much all of the eras. I can’t really recommend anything more specific than this. I recommend that you read through the guides, check out a few reviews on the net and head down to your local store and try a few models to make up your mind. Ultimately, what’s important is that you’re comfortable playing the guitar and not that it fits a certain style. – Bjorn]

  167. Kevin says:

    @bjorn
    Thanks for the advice! Also, thanks for having a kick-ass site! I just recently got back into Pink Floyd and I’m really digging playing Floyd tunes again and you’re site has been invaluable. I’m currently playing through a black PRS McCarty with P-90’s and I get a nice Gilmouresque sound using it through my POD HD500. I also recently purchased a TC Electronics Alter Ego delay and I’m really digging it for the Echo Rec sound. Hopefully this new guitar will give me even more of a Gilmour vibe. If nothing else, it will look the part.

    @josh,
    I found a coupon on retailmenot for 10% off so I just ordered one and it should arrive next week. I’ll do a review once I’ve spent some time with it.

    [Thanks for your kind words, Kevin! – Bjorn]

  168. Josh says:

    @kevin,
    Hey I checked out the site your talking about, looks pretty legit, but if you do end up ordering from there you should post your expirience, just cause with the internet, you never know. If I order first ill do the same…

  169. Kevin says:

    I found a place here in the states that is selling MIM standard strats that they mod into Gilmour black strats for $750 US. I talked to one of the employees and he said they bulk order MIM strats and parts from Fender and make all the mods. He also swears that the bridges these days on MIM standars are comparable to the MIA standards and his modded guitars will give any American standard a run for it’s money. I’m a little skeptical and hesitant to buy a guitar I’ve never played over the net but the price does make it tempting. Does this sound too good to be true to you?

    Here are the specs for their 920d Gilmour guitar …

    Seymour Duncan SSL-5 (Bridge)
    Fender Custom Shop ’69 (Middle)
    Fender Custom Shop Fat ’50s (Neck)
    Toggle switch to add neck pickup in any position
    Vintage Tinted C-shape neck with 9.5″ radius
    21 medium jumbo frets
    Shortened Tremolo Arm
    Fender Locking Tuners
    Chrome Strap Locks
    Fender Black 1 Ply Pickguard
    White Skirted Knobs
    Deluxe Duraguard Gig Bag
    Custom Setup

    [I’m sure it’s a nice guitar and the specs looks OK. If you trust the seller, then I guess it’s OK. Keep in mind though that all guitars, regardless origin of production, vary in quality. There are no guaranties that you’ll get a good wood selection or assembly. The only way to really be sure is to try the guitar – especially when the guitar is mass produced such as Fenders. That being said, the overall quality of the MIMs is very good. It’s also worth noticing some of the features like locking tuners and jumbo frets. If you’re not familiar with this, then I recommend that you visit your local store and try a guitar that has these features. – Bjorn]

  170. Thomas Williams says:

    Bjorn

    Be sure to mention Warmoth for people shopping for guitars. I have big hands and though guitarin’ wasn’t for me until I found the Superwide Warmoth Stra neck. Also with their other options like the recessed neck pocket for better access to the high register I think Warmoth makes better products by far than Fender and Gibson at reasonable prices.
    Best
    TQuay

    [You’re absolutely right! I have a couple of their necks and couldn’t be happier. – Bjorn]

  171. Josh says:

    Hey Bjorn!,
    So I have a question, my wife is letting me get a brand new MIM standard strat for my birthday next week(i have a squier bullet strat now, so im very excited on the upgrade!) Anyways iam going to order a callaham bridge at the same time as the guitar, I was wondering if the Vintage s bridge is compatible with this guitar, if not, is the bridge they have specifically for mex std as good of an upgrade as the vintage s? Do you think it will be as smooth as you described in your review of the vinatge s?

    [I’m really not sure so send them an e-mail and ask for the specific model. There might want to be some differences in the size etc. All their bridge systems will improve your tone, sustain and tuning stability. – Bjorn]

  172. Johan says:

    Forgot to mention, that i really like the funky rythm part of echoes, but as you posted in the echoes thread he uses a fuzz and delay, so ill be fine on that one :)

  173. Johan says:

    Heya Bjorn,

    Thanks for the quick reply.

    The tone which i really like from gilmour is from the song “Marooned”. Seems like a little bit of spacey sound (think its kinda of reverb). Also i really like the sound of “Shine on you crazy diamond”. I’m currently using a delay pedal the boss DD-7 and a Dunlop Wah. Also have the Electro Harmonix Stereo Electric Mistress which i don’t like that much, doenst work well with my amp. Think the main thing i need is a proper reverb pedal to combine it with the delay, and maybe a proper overdrive pedal.

    Maybe you are wondering why do you buy and amp with tons of gain, for a slight overdriven sound, well im also a fan of the sound which Adam Jones produces, but thats another story ;)

    Cheers.

    [Hi Johan, sorry for my late reply. An Orange amp and Les Paul with buckers aren’t an ideal setup for replicating David’s tones but you should be able to cover some of them at least. If you do want a more authentic tone then you might want to consider a cleaner sounding amp and perhaps a Strat. Anyway, Marooned is pretty basic really. It’s overdrive and delay. The reverb is added in the mixing of the song. See this feature for some tips on which overdrives and distortions to choose and this one for some tips on using reverb. See also the Tone – Pedals feature for some tone building tips. Hope this helped. – Bjorn]

  174. Johan says:

    Hello Bjorn,

    Appreciate your time for making this post and to help guys like me to achieve a specific tone.

    Ive got a question myself. Ive been playing a gibson les paul classic custom with stock pickups, with an Orange thunder 30, however it seems that i can only use my les paul for cleans and distortion, but not for some slight overdrive sound or is this amp not the way to go to achieve the gilmour tone. Also im still in need of a proper 1×12 cab, also any ideas on this one? And a proper reverb pedal.

    Thanks for reading this.

    Cheers from the netherlands

    [Hi Johan! Could you be a bit more specific in what tones you’re trying to achieve. Do you have any pedals at all? – Bjorn]

  175. Josh says:

    Whats your opinion on the Squier Vintage modified 70s strat(looks like davids black strat) ? Right now i have a squier bullet strat and im ready for an upgrade…

    [I haven’t had the chance to try the VM series yet so I can’t really comment on that. – Bjorn]

  176. Sergio Rodrigues says:

    After your answer to my post about the Fender Classic Series Laquer strats, I emailed Fender about them. What they told me was that the production line is exactly the same as the regular classic series guitars, only the finish is different. Thought I shoud share this with the Gilmourish “community”.

    [Thanks! – Bjorn]

  177. clark says:

    The FSR was a limited run for GC, and once you have the info you should add it here cause alot of players could get that look/sound/feel from DG looking mim fsr strat for 590 which included 2 year pro coverage. For the money you get the DG look and sound and damn good playability. People bank too much on the MIA label.

  178. clark says:

    hey Bjorn how are you?

    I recently bought a fenders strat mim fsr, (the david gilmour looking one) and honestly it played and sounded better than the american strats at the GC. If you havent looked at them or tried them you should give them a look.

    [Hi Clark! I haven’t been able to try the FRS as no one carries them here in Norway. From what I can see, it’s pretty much a Standard dressed and modded like a DG-ish model. Looks nice :) – Bjorn]

  179. David Auchterlonie says:

    Hello Bjorne, I just got a really nice fsr American standard brand new for a song, and without doubt the best guitar I have ever owned, very gilmourish tones. I am left handed so finding this strat via eBay was a real treat. I live in Australia so most American standards are very dear. I also own a hamer p90 xt, and gets some great gilmourish tones. Thanks for this site, I have been a fan of david for over twenty years

    [Sounds like a great setup! – Bjorn]

  180. Sergio Rodrigues says:

    Have you got your hands on the new Classic Series Laquer models?
    What do you think of them?
    Cheers!

    [Haven’t had the chance to try them yet but they look very promising. I guess Fender is trying to kill the Japanese export for good :) A bit too expensive for a MIM though. – Bjorn]

  181. Josh says:

    OK, thank you. One more thing, my budget is more in the mim standard range, I do in fact want a guitar with a vintage vibe to it, would it be better to get the squier CV, or is the mim standard a more quality instument, making it the better choice?

    [There are difference between the Squiers and MIMs both in terms of quality and specs. The overall quality of the MIMs (Standard and Classic) is better. Still, the Classic Vibe guitars are very good and you get a lot for the buck. A few modifications, like upgrading the pickups, will make it a fine instrument. Anyway, I strongly recommend that you try a different models within MIM and Squier to get an idea of the differences. – Bjorn]

  182. Josh says:

    What do you know about the American special strat? Is it better than the MIM CS strat? There about the same price so I’m kind of torn

    [Depends on what you’re looking for. The CS has a more vintage vibe to it with the classic looks and specs, while the Special is very similar to the Standard with a few alterations such as the large headstock and the Texas Special pickups. Personally I’d spent some time finding a really good MIM SC and replaced the pickups but I you want those slightly more modern specs then the Specials are fine guitars indeed. – Bjorn]

  183. Andrew says:

    And what nut is on this Warmoth neck? What nut material u prefer ?
    And whar pick u use usually ?
    Thx)

    [It’s bone. I’m using Dunlop Tortex Jazz 1mm. – Bjorn]

  184. Andrew says:

    Bjorn please tell:
    What fret size you choose for your Warmoth neck?
    What tremolo is on your strat with Warmoth neck ( fender? callaham?)
    What tremolo arm is on this guitar and what size?
    Thank you.

    [Don’t remember the type but the frets are vintage style, thin. The tremolo system is Callaham Vintage S with a “64 arm. – Bjorn]

  185. Keith says:

    Just found the mother lode of 9v zinc carbon batteries. 2 for a dollar@ Dollat Tree. If you have a Dollar Tree store in your town, they have Sunbeam, and at times panasonic, 2 for a buck, and not expired, but marked best if purchased before 3/15! Just passing it along.
    Peace, Postmaster K

  186. Brandon says:

    I was browsing the Fender site and found this. Since I’m used to Floyd Rose, I thought this would be about perfect. Would I need to upgrade/swap any of the pickups?

    http://www.fender.com/guitars/stratocaster/blacktop-strat-hh-floyd-rose-rosewood-fingerboard-titanium-silver/

    [I haven’t tried these myself but the specs looks OK. See my reply to your previous post :) – Bjorn]

  187. Brandon says:

    I’m a huge fan of David Gilmour and just found this site. So far, I would consider myself a ‘novice’ at best at actual playing guitar, and even less with some of the terminology used on this site. I currently have a 1985 Charvel/Jackson San Dimas Custom USA model that I think I paid way too much for ($3200 USD). Nothing I do to this instrument will get me even close to David’s tone. I guess, what I’m asking is – taking into consideration that my current guitar plays perfectly for me – What guitar and setup is best for someone like me? My current guitar takes so little pressure on the strings that is almost like a feather touch in comparison to a lot of guitars in the stores.

    [Hi Brandon! Welcome to the site :) Those old San Dimas are wonderful guitars. Perhaps not the typical Gilmour axe but you should be able to get some nice Gilmourish tones with it anyway. BTW have you seen this clip before? I assume yours has a humbucker in the bridge? You could, like David’s, have an EMG H installed or look at some of the P90s in humbucker casinsg. I’m using a pair of Duncan Phat Cats my self, which nails most of David’s tones. In terms of what gear you should buy… Let me know how you’ll be using it – bedroom, band, stage? And how much your nudget is and I’ll try to help. – Bjorn]

  188. Keith says:

    Hey Bjorn, I’ve been so excited about going back to work, and getting the MJM, that I forgot to mention that Tom Rodriguez had a heat pump issue at a house he’s selling, and I spent quite a few hours doing the repair, so he offered me another of his fantastic guitars, a ’68 Les Paul Custom he was building for a customer who backed out. So, as thus far it’s only a body, and neck, and unfinished, I’m having him make it my Pete Townsend inspired Les Paul, I think it’s #3, as Pete put big white numbers on his guitars in the ’70’s, and 80’s. It will be Burgundy, with all the fancy MOP inlay work, the white number, and Fralin Real PAF’s, which are his dead on early, lower output Humbuckers. I’ll surely use it for my Pink Floyd repertoire as well, and should be able to get almost any tone I desire with the Strat, Paul, and thinline Tele! I am so excited to get another handcrafted beauty, and will of course find a great name for it, perhaps Happy Jack, or The Seeker, hehe! Just forgot to mention it, he just made the offer yesterday. What a no brainer, but as usual it will likely be 6 months befote he finishes it. Well worth the wait, and the price!
    Peace, Postmaster K~

    [Wow! That sounds like a nice deal! Keep me posted :) – Bjorn]

  189. Luc Huard says:

    Remember I was telling you about me trying a Classic Vibe Telecaster, well…
    I bought one 10 days ago, it’s a 2012 butterscotch blonde. She sounds great, I am also impressed with the craftsmanship, the finish is excellent, the guitar is flawless. I am going to keep it stock at this time because the sound is actually very good. But you never know, maybe one day I will go with Vintage Noiseless ou CS Texas special, but for now I love the sound. The bridge is agressive with the famous Telecaster twang and the neck is very warm and clean. The setup with the two pups together is very good for rhythm, especially power chords with distortion.
    It is my 3rd electric guitar, my humble opinion is, for the price it’s a pretty goood guitar.
    I think it’s about time I take a picture of my gear for the gallery and send it to Bjorn. :0)

    [Yeah, those are great guitars! Please do send a picture! – Bjorn]

  190. Soumyajit says:

    Great Review like always. Thanks once again.

    I’ve a black fender MIM stratocaster 2010. Now i’ve upgraded the pickups as well. If you can remember i mailed you earlier for that for the tone issue of SSL5.

    Now the current pickups are CS69 (Neck), CS50 (Mid), SSL5 (Bridge) and its really an awesome upgrade indeed.

    thanks again for all the help.

    cheers.

    [Glad to hear, Soumyajit! – Bjorn]

  191. Diogo says:

    Heya Bjorn,
    I know Les Pauls aren’t really the best Gilmourish guitars, but do you think something like coil tapping would get some nice stratty tones? Been looking at the Epiphone Std Plustop Pro. Wee bit of a stretch budget-wise, but if I pull it off, looks like a good versatile guitar (which is what I’m after). Have yet to try it though.
    Cheers!

    [I haven’t explored the coil tapping that much but it should work or at least provide some useful tones. I use P90s quite a lot my self and have also gotten some nice results with PAFs and Custom 57s buckers. – Bjorn]

  192. Yoel says:

    So far all the Strats I’ve played have a really obnoxiously high action, and coming from a Les Paul with really low action and a pretty flat fretboard radius, which do you think will be the easiest transition? I usually play with D’Addario 10s. I’ve heard its harder to bend on the 7.25″ neck vs the 9.5″ one.

    [You should always set the action according to your preferences. A 7.25″ neck will require a slightly higher action compared to a LP, due to its radius but you can get it pretty low too and still be able to do serious bends. Depends on your technique. – Bjorn]

  193. Yoel says:

    Greetings!

    Sorry for the large amounts of questions, but you’re probably the only one who understands this dilemma I have. I’m in the market for a new guitar, and I want to buy a Strat. My budget is about $1000 USD. The Vintage 57 Reissue is a nice guitar, but since I’m replacing the pickups/hardware anyway, its a tad expensive. CIJ guitars aren’t really an option for me, so I settled on an MIM after hearing great reviews. I boiled it down to the Classic Series 50s, and the Classic Player’s 50s, and I cant for the life of me decide which one. My local guitar shop doesnt have any MIM Classics, but they said they can order me one straight from Fender. In short, no way of trying out different models, etc. What I get is what I get essentially. So I need your help. Both I can get for $600, and I’m gonna replace the hardware with this [http://www.stratcat.biz/4035.shtml], no matter what guitar I get. So which one should I go for?

    P.S. Here are some of the main differences between the two:
    CS: Vintage Style Frets, Vintage Synchronized Tremolo, Vintage Style Tuners, 7.25″ (184.1 mm) Fingerboard Radius
    CP: Medium Jumbo Frets, Vintage Style 2 Point Tremolo, Vintage Style Locking Tuners, 9.5″ (241 mm) Fingerboard Radius

    Whats the difference between the fingerboard radius and the trem systems, and most of all, the two guitars (that is if youve had any experience with the CP)?
    Thank you so much Bjorn, you are the best thing that has happened to us Gilmour freaks since his last album. Cheers!

    [Hi Yoel! Sorry for my late reply. I guess you know my answer to this… only you can decide which one to choose. It depends on how the guitar feels and plays when you’re playing it. Simple as that. I can tell you which I’d choose. I’d go for the CS. The CP is a modern Strat, similar to the Standard, with a few vintage specs. The CS is a true vintage reissue with the most popular and common features from each decade. I prefer the vintage specs and upgrading the pickups, as I understand you’ll be doing, will make it a great guitar. The CP is nice too and the jumbo frets especially, will add a bit more body to your tone, but gaian, I prefer the CS. Good luck with the purchase! – Bjorn]

  194. Patrick says:

    I love my MIM FSR it’s all black like David’s. Installed a ssl-5 in the bridge and I am happy with it! Someday, I will replace the other pickups.

  195. Keith says:

    There are also many handcrafted Strat atyle guitars available fir less than a top of the line Fender, they can be setup with the pickups, and hardware you choose, and in many cases are about the same price as the more expensive Strats, and far superior in quality. I paid half as much as the Custom Shop Black Strat, and it’s IMO a far bettet guitar, the big difference being I didn’t want to paint it black. Pictures of the guitar I call Cymbaline will be posted in the gallery as soon as my pedalboard gets wired, most likely tomorrow. Other than the decal, and fret marker placement, you cannot tell by looking at it that it isn’t a Fender, but plays , and sounds better than any of the over 50 guitars I’ve owned over the last 30+ years. Fender makes fine instruments, but handcrafted instruments, made the old fashioned way, by one pair of experienced hands can’t be equalled by any production guitar!
    Peace, KC

  196. Fritz says:

    Are these recommendations for Stratocasters only, or also Telecasters?

    [I’ve focused on Strats with Gilmour’s tones in mind but all of these series has some great sounding Teles as well. – Bjorn]

  197. Flavio says:

    Great update! I was lucky to buy my American Standard just after the 2012 upgrade, I just love it. I was about to go with a black one but fell in love with the looks and sound of a sunburst, its impressive how two almost identical guitars can sound different.

    Keep the good work!

    [Thanks… and congrats! – Bjorn]

  198. Mateusz says:

    I own little known guitar called Flame Bell IIS. She’s made by polish company Mayones and she’s amazing. She has compound radius fretboard with 22 frets, flamed maple top over alder body painted in transparent red, Schaller Vintage Tremolo, Schaller locking tuners, DiMarzio Area/Virtual Vintage pickups. The only thing is the lack of Fender badge :-)

    [Nice! – Bjorn]

  199. Aaron says:

    Hey nice, but I own a Squier Classic Vibe 50s Strat and it stays in tune when you use the stock tremolo system. Been playing it for 1 year plus :)

  200. AM Houston says:

    Sorry Highway one model is discontinued. However they have another model with similar specs for $899 on Musician’s Friend.

  201. AM Houston says:

    Fender Highway One is another option if your budget is around $650-$750 and you want to buy a new made in USA guitar. What do you thin Bjorn?

    [I know many like these but personally I’ve never really come to terms with them… – Bjorn]

  202. Bender Rodriguez says:

    greetings for your job Bjorn!well done!
    I´m a huge fan of fender (since I saw David´s Delicate Tour performance). I´ve had in my hands several vintage series strats last week, and i think the assembly (neck-body) is quite poor for the cost of them (2000€ each). I think the best is to test the guitar. You may found very good MIM, Clasic Vibes, MIJ, etc. Only have to have care on search . I´ve got a 600€ candy aple red, maple neck Tokai (MIJ) and its a superb piece in it´s construction an feel. With DG20 EMG´s is comparable to any USA “red strat” ;-)
    Greetings again!

    [Indeed. You can find some really nice cheaper guitars as well that’s just as good as the pricier ones. – Bjorn]

  203. michael says:

    i’ve owned about 6 strats…. i have a classic vibe 50s squier at the min and i love it more than US strats i’ve paid 4 times the price for. very resonant and fantastic sustain. the trem works well too.

    the only “upgrade” i have done is a warmoth fat/chunky neck with 22 frets.

    [The neck plays a huge part of the tone so if you’ve replaced it with a Warmoth I would say that’s a rather big upgrade :) Nevertheless, the Classic Vibes are great guitars! – Bjorn]

  204. Toni says:

    Have you tried the new Fender Select Series Stratocaster?
    More or less these are the specs: body alder with flame maple top, neck flame maple “C” shape, fingerboard flame maple, bridge 2-point synchronized tremolo with vintage style bent steel saddles and pickups Fender Select single coil pickup (bridge, middle and neck).
    My main concern are the pickups, which I don’t know. I wanted to try them at the shop but it was not in stock.
    Once again, thanks a lot for your amazing web (and congratulations for your amazing band Airbag, I enjoyed this weekend amazing Marillion’s two last concerts of the european tour 2013 in Barcelona and I’m glad to tell you that Airbag was well known and extremely appreciated by a large number of “musician” friends I met there! You deserve it! We are looking forward new songs! ; )

    [I haven’t had the chance to try the Selected Series yet. There aren’t any stores carrying them here at the moment. Thanks a lot for the note about Airbag! Glad to hear! – Bjorn]

  205. Bart Logtens says:

    Again an exellent article, Björn! My ‘main’ guitars at the moment are a 2004 US Strat. With CS’54 pickups, Callaham Vintage style Trem system (with short arm) and the obligatry black pickguard..
    That’s my main squeeze for gigs. Recently had the stock jack socket replaced with a Switchcraft, because it cut out (while playing the solo from Time… Midway trough the high part… AAAAAH!)

    My other Squeeze is a CIJ Richie Kotzen Tele. I first saw one in the hands of Roger Waters Guitarist Dave Kilminster and I was taken by the looks at first, and the sound to match. I got a really good used one, and I use it regularly on- and off stage. It has a big fat neck, wich feels awkward at first, but it gives me huge stability when bending notes high up the neck. It’s standad fitted with a DiMarzio Chopper-T in the bridge and a Twang King in the neck position. They are slightly hotter than normal singlecoils, an so I use the RK Tele for the solo to Brick pt 2.

    I also own a London City Comet mk1. I bought it new, about 5 years ago. For €200,- It features a rosewood neck with nitro back finisch (like it), an alder butterscotch body with stock pups. I use it EVERY DAY! it my couch guitar, and I love it to bits. It’s straight, stays in tune, has plenty of sustain. And when plugged in, it stands uo to every Fender Tele I heard! It’s a ‘lucky’ guitar, that was cheap, but is great quality!

    So what I’m saying is: a cheap guitar CAN be a good guitar. If tou know what to look for! That’s where your article comes in handy!

    [Indeed. Price doesn’t say anything, or at least little, about the quality of the instrument. Thanks for the input! – Bjorn]

  206. Yoel says:

    Great article man! Really informative!

    [Thanks! – Bjorn]

  207. Josh says:

    Hi Bjorn, lots of great info as always. When you get a chance you might want to add some telecaster info. Also Levinson blade guitars make sensational strat style guitars – trem is easy to use and stays in tune, comfortable neck and onboard active electronics give you an ‘addictive’ mid boost (hard to play without it once you’ve discovered it!). Great work and happy picking to all.

    [Thanks for the tip! I’ll check it out :) – Bjorn]

  208. Benoit says:

    Hi Bjorn! I got myself a Godin Progression guitar a couple months ago. I think you should check them out pretty good strat style guitar at a good price!!! And mine as a maple neck with a black body and white pickups…sounds familliar???

    [Nice! Thanks for the tip! – Bjorn]

  209. Robert Farrer says:

    Bjorn totally spot on regarding mim. My standard one with emg had bridge replaced probably best upgrade I made. Also the tuners are terrible, nut is plastic stock pickups are poor. I replaced all this and it’s a completely different animal. Standard fret wire is also a bit soft I’m on my 2nd fret dress in 2 yrs with the last one pretty bad. My black strat is a classic 50s again stock parts replaced as before the finish on this guitar is top notch though. Great updates on the site Bjorn, Bob

    [Thanks Bob! – Bjorn]

  210. Luc Huard says:

    Another great article Bjorn.

    I have a Black Strat Maple neck MIM 2010 that I bought on sale brand new for $450.00 Can.
    I upgraded the pickups and I absolutely love my guitar. So with parts and labor = $700.00
    My luthier says that I bought a pretty good instrument, the finish is amazing.

    About the Squier Classic Vibe series, last month I went to the store to buy some strings.
    I saw a Squier Cassic Vibe Telecaster it was a butterscotch blonde. I have to say I’ts a great looking guitar and I tried it. I was surprised, the sound is actually pretty good for a $380.00 guitar. I ‘m on a low budget and the Cassic Vibe Telecaster as a 3rd guitar is a good deal for me. I have my Strat and an old 1980 Gibson. Also you can always upgrade it later, this guitar has pretty good reviews.

    [The Classic Vibes are great and with the needed upgrades you can turn them into some really nice work horses for touring etc. – Bjorn]

  211. Pablo says:

    Great work as always, Bjorn! Just one thing: don’t you have any issues with the ‘swimming pool’ routing on strats these days?

    [Haven’t really thought about it but I don’t think there’s much of a tonal difference. – Bjorn]

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